Wednesday, April 28, 2010

W:shears, long, layers, line, bangs

This is a long haircut that is initially cut by over directing to the back of the person. It is then layered above the wide part of the head namely the occipital bone and the parietal ridge. Bangs are then cut and it is cross checked.
Assess hair line, hair growth patterns, head shape.
Determine length and manually mold the design.

Make a natural part and connect it to a center nape parting.

Cut the back and sides to one length
Comb hair down the back in natural fall.
Take horizontal sections.
Comb down and cut about 5 inches below the top of the shoulder.
Hold the hair in the fingers and cut flat to the floor.
See the post on cutting the one length haircut.

Sections are taken up the back of the head and then continue forward to the front of the head. All the hair is combed directly back onto the back and cut to the same flat line.
In front of the ear the section parts go from center top of the head to the side. They are all over directed back to be cut at the same flat line.
The same thing is done on the other side.


Take a vertical section in the middle back of the head going from the apex to the occipital bone.
The hair is pulled up at 90 degrees to the head shape through the crown. The hair toward the perimeter of the hair is allowed to fall out. Cut the section from bottom to top. The bottom is shorter than the top.

Now pivot the first section to the side. The hair is combed 90 degrees to the crown and it is cut to the guide of the first section. It is over directed to the first section and cut to the guide.
Continue to take pivoting sections and over directing them back to the center line.
At the ear the section is up and down to the ear. It is pulled back and up to the original cutting line of the first section.

In front of the ear, the sections are diagonal forward. They are combed up and back to the original cutting line. In this section and in the section at the ear the perimeter of the section has been allowed to fall out so that the bottom of the sections is at the parietal ridge.

More diagonal forward sections are taken until reaching the natural parting.

Start over in the back and do the same things on the other side for layering.

Redo the natural part on the top.
On one side of the natural part take a curved part around the front hair line about 1 inch in from the front. The parting will follow the hair line and will be aimed at the ear.
Comb the hair forward and cut a line that is parallel to the part line. Cut to the side of the face outside the cheek bone. The hair is combed forward in natural fall.
Make more sections parallel to the first and comb forward. Cut as above. Continue until the hair does not reach. Do not comb the hair outside the cheek bone forward.
Hair that is combed forward is from the center of the head and is not from hair that falls behind the cheekbone.
Where the hair is cut to make up the bangs, the layering is removed. This is the hair on the top that could have been combed to the side.

They now reduce the extra length on the side by the ear. This extra length had been developed by over directing this hair to the clients back and cutting with a flat line.
(I think this could have been done by combing the hair down on the side instead of over directing it back.)

Do the same thing on the other side of the natural part.

Product and blow dry. Wrap blow dry.

Cross check by taking sections opposite to direction of sections used to make the cut. On top over up and forward to check the line. (It looks like the sectioning is the same as used in the cut but the over direction is opposite.)

Check the dried bangs on the skin. These had been cut between the eyes and tip of the nose.

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