Wednesday, April 28, 2010

W: shears, short, layers

This is a short haircut with mid forehead length and a little overlap of the ears. The layering is mostly concave. Pivoting sections are generally used and the sections are generally in the natural fall of the hair.

Assess hair line, hair growth, head shape.
Decide on length and manually mold the design.

Layer top and front side with concave layers
Comb the hair to natural fall for all of these sections.
Take a back to front section down middle of top starting at the crown and going to the forehead. Comb up to 90 degrees and cut a concave layer. Concave means it is shorter internally (at the crown) and longer to the perimeter (at the forehead). In this demonstration the hair is pulled up to the head shape and cut on a small angle going up to toward the front. The angle looks to be about 15 degrees up from flat as you go to the forehead. Pulling it up from the head shape means it will be leaning forward as you go to the forehead just because the top of the head is leaning forward as it curves from the apex to the forehead.

The length at the crown for this section is about 3 inches. At the forehead hair line it is about 5 inches.

The next section starts in the crown and pivots to the side of the first section. The demonstration mentions either lifting the hair up from the section or over directing to the previous section depending on the head shape. I think this means that a head that is flatter on top would be lifted straight out and a head that curves more severely to the side might be over directed to the center section??? Over directing to the center could leave more hair to compensate for the curvature of the head.

Further sections are taken by pivoting the section further to the side. Hair is pulled out from the head shape and follows the guide in the previous section ( this means the section that was just cut).
The sections are cut until reaching just behind the ear. On the sides the sections seem to be cut more along the head shape in a concave line. It is not cut to the same inclined line that was used on the top.

Cut behind ear
Behind the ear the sections are vertical and cut to follow the head shape more. There is a little increase in length toward the nape hair line which continues the concave layering. Above the occipital bone the layering follows the head shape.

Work to the middle of the back.

Do the same thing on the other side starting on the other side of the top middle.

Make a center part to the forehead on the top.
Go back about 4 inches and make a slender pie shaped section off the center part. This section is combed to the forehead and lifted so the hair in the bangs is elevated up to the front hair line.
The hair behind the bangs is combed forward and held in fingers that follow the head shape around the curve where the forehead and top of the head meet. The hair is cut to follow the fingers.
More sections are taken by pivoting the first section to the side. These sections are pivoted until reaching outside the eyebrow.

Do the other side of the bangs the same way.

Even out the top
Take side to side sections across the top of the head. Start at the front and work back to the crown.
Pull these up to 90 degrees and cut flat to the ceiling.

Connect sides to top
Take center to side sections around the curvature of the head where the top meets the sides. Pull these to 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. May want to start these over and ear and work forward to the front hair line and then go back to the ear and work backwards to the middle back.

Check lower sides with vertical sections per the demonstrations. It seems these might also be checked with horizontal sections.

Cross check nape to crown
Start at hair line in nape. Take horizontal sections and over direct these up before checking and cutting. This will leave length at the perimeter.
Further horizontal sections are taken above as the checking moves to the crown. All sections are over directed up for cutting.

Product and blow dry
Point cut the outline for details and length.

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