Tuesday, April 27, 2010

W: shear, moderate, graduation, line and layering

Assess hair line, hair growth patterns, and head shape.
Decide on length and manually form the design.

Find the natural part.
Part the nape in center and connect this to the natural part.

Cut the back
Take horizontal sections at hair line in nape on one side. Tip head forward. Comb hair into natural fall. Cut against skin parallel to the part line for the section.
Do same on the other side of the nape.

Take another horizontal section above the first and pull it out to 45 degrees and cut to the guide from the first section. Same on other side of the nape.

The following sections are done the same way with the hair being pulled up to 45 degrees and cut to the guide in the section just done before. The elevation is to 45 degrees which still leaves the cut line below the section being done at the time. The demonstration mentions that this means weight is being built up. This leads to a band of graduation being developed near the hair line of the nape.
The line of the cut is flat with the wall behind the head. This makes it longer behind the ears.
Check the graduation visually as you go along.

These sections are taken up to the occipital bone and middle of the ear and then the graduation is crossed checked. Use diagonal forward sections for this.

Use point cutting on the back perimeter to give a line slanting up from the middle back to the ear and then down slightly behind the ear.

Continue up to the top of the ears with the same section but do not elevate the section any more before cutting. Cut to the guide done at the occipital bone. ( The demonstration says no further elevation but it shows some small elevation near the guide.)

Once above the ear the section is continued to the front hair line. This section is not elevated much in the back but is progressively raised as it is cut toward the front hair line.
The next sections follow the same pattern. The sections are taken in this manner up the center parting in the back to the natural part on top.
These are, in effect, horse shoe shaped partings done on one half of the head. The key seems to be in how much elevation is used in the different parts of the section when it is cut. As the sections move up the head, there is less hair toward the back in each section. The hair on the sides is elevated to about 45 degrees and cut to the guide in the previous section.

The other side is done the same way.

Cut the bangs
Make a center part in the top of head going from front to back.
Make a curved section about 1 inch in around the front hair line. Comb the hair forward.
Cut a long bang between the nose and the mouth. It is cut from the center to the outer edge of the eyebrow. The hair is elevated and inch or two to give some graduation to the ends.
Comb parallel section forward until the hair no longer reaches.

Do same on other side of the bangs and the center part which divides the bangs.

Connect the bangs to the side outline
Take a diagonal back parting from the center parting to the ear. Comb forward and cut a line from the corner of the bangs toward the jaw corner.
Take more diagonal back partings parallel to the first and comb forward to the guide and cut. It is not clear why this was not done all in the first part of cutting the bangs. Other demonstrations have shone the connection as following the curvature of the part around the front hairline.

Do the same on the other side.

Product and blow dry.

Layering on top of the head
Take a front to back section from the crown toward the front and cut flat with ceiling. Pivot this section around the sides and cut flat.

Cross check every where. Check graduation with horizontal sections going up

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