Thursday, April 29, 2010

W: shear, long, layers, graduation, line

This is a long haircut. The hair is cut one length with the sides over directed to the client's back. The hair is layered in the front by first making bangs and then layering to the guide in the bangs. During this the hair is over directed to the front. This layers the top and some of the sides and lets the perimeter fall out of the layering. Finally some graduation is done at the perimeter in the nape.

Assess hair line, hair growth patter, and size of head.

Determine length and manually mold the design.

Make natural part.

Center parting may work best for this shape.

Tip head forward.

Make a center part in nape from crown to hair line. Connect to natural part.

Cut the back and sides to one length directed to the back

At nape hair line take horizontal sections and comb hair to natural fall.

Hold the hair with fingers about 2 inches below the shoulder an cut a square/flat line.

Work up back of nape and cut to guide. Sections are parallel. Work to just above the ear.

Continue up the crown and work to the front hair line with the same shaped parts. They will go initially from the center part of the crown to the top of the ear. The sections will then pivot around the ear until the part is vertical on the side of the head. Hair of all sections is combed back to the client's back and the line is cut as square/flat.

Do other side the same way starting at the nape hair line.

Start layering at front hair line

Make a diagonal back part from the center part(or natural part) going toward the ear.

Comb forward and cut the length of the bangs at the bridge of the nose. As the section is cut further the line of cut parallels the diagonal back part line but the line is over directed forward to stretch the length of hair forward.

Next section is parallel to first and goes from top center to top of ear. Comb forward and lift slightly before cutting to the guide. This will soften the line. The hair at the bottom of the section does not reach the guides as the hair is over directed forward.

Continue with parallel sections.

Behind the ear the part line continues through the hair behind the ear. This part follows the line of the hair line. All the hair is combed forward and cut to the guide used in the bangs. This a slightly rounded line from top center of head to the hair line.

At the apex, the sections have become vertical and pivot around the crown. Pull the sections out along the part line and over direct to the previously cut section. The sections are no longer pulled to the guide at the bangs.
It is not clear why this starts where it does or where it starts. It looks like this is about where the side of the head meets the back of the head. It stops the layering below the occipital bone from what I can see.

Go the front hair line on the other side and do the same methods.
Check balance between sides regularly.
The demonstration tells one to continue to work through the center back of the head into the other side.

Add graduation
Part the nape down the center.
Take diagonal forward sections starting below the occipital bone and working to the crown. Pull the section to 45 degrees from the head and cut the section parallel to the diagonal forward part of the section.
Continue taking diagonal forward sections and elevate the section above the previous section before cutting to the guide of the previous section.

Graduate the other side of the nape.

Product and blow dry.
Finish with point cutting and slicing.

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