Saturday, April 24, 2010

W: shears, short one length, graduation

Asses the hairline and hold hair to mimic the design.

Find natural part to let hair fall into pattern of natural fall. Take another look at line to be cut for the design.

Connect natural part to the center nape part with a diagonal line.

This haircut now starts like the post for W: shears, one length, bangs.
This is a quick summary. Take horizontal sections up the back and cut while holding sections to the skin with the fingers. Cut flat to the floor. Head is tilted forward. Hair has been combed to its natural fall pattern. Go up to the top of the ear. Part will start just above the occipital bone and go to the top of the ear. Do same on other side.

Add graduation to the back
In the back on left side take a parallel section just above the section that went to the top of the ear. In the demo this was a small section. It was lifted about 45 degrees and cut to the guide of the hair in the previous section. The hair at the perimeter is allowed to fall away.
Take another parallel section. Lift it sightly higher in the center and lower in the corner. It is cut to the guide from the previous section.
Cross check the shape by taking diagonal forward sections in the left nape. The first section goes from the center of the nape at the top to about 1 inch to the side of center at the nape hair line. This section is picked up and held at 45 degrees from the head shape. The lower part of the section is allowed to fall away and the part that had graduation cut into it is checked for the angle of the cut. Finish checking the nape graduation area with more diagonal forward sections. The bottom parts of the sections are allowed to fall away from the checking.

Take more parallel sections up the back of the head and elevate them to 45 degrees. Cut them to the guide in the previous section. Do two sections. This will put the section part at the low crown to the top part of the ear. Cross check by taking diagonal back sections starting near the ear and going toward the center of the nape.

Now continue to the side by taking a horizontal sections starting from the part line that connects the low crown to the ear and going toward the eyebrow. Comb this down and cut a line to continue from the nape area forward. See this in the post W: shears, one length, bangs

Sections are continued up to the natural parting. They are cut to one length with the head tipped away from the cutting side. The hair has to be tapped above the ear to make up for the distance the ears stick out. The hair is cut flat with the floor: blades are parallel to the floor.

Add graduation to back and sides
Go back to the part line connecting the low crown to the upper ear. Take a parting parallel to this and pull the section back and let the hair in the nape and side drop out. Then cut to the guide of the graduation already cut in the previous section.
Continue to take parallel sections going to the front. Over direct each section back. Let the side and back drop out and cut to the previous section for the guide to the graduation.

Move to the front left of the client. Make a curved section from the front to the back. This starts at the natural part about an inch in from the front hair line and curves around to the mid nape about the level of the ear.
These sections are pulled parallel to the parting and trimmed lightly ( about one millimeter) to give small graduation additions. This may be cross checking the graduation.
More sections are taken parallel up the natural part. They are elevated to their part and cut to the guide from the previous section.

Cross check the entire first side horizontally. Less than a millimeter is cut in the back and sides. The sections for cross checking are lifted away from the perimeter so it is not changed.

Do the same to the other side.

Blow dry in sections like used for the cut.

See VS ab in abc cutting course.
It seems this could be cut at one length first and then adding the graduation to the back and sides.

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