Watched a DVD demo recently in which several techniques were applied to give a pleasant and convenient style.
Started with a model with hair below the shoulders a few inches and with some bangs in the front. Sections were made with a natural part on top connecting to the center of the nape in the back. At this time there was no part from the apex to the ears.
The hair in the nape was parted from the occipital bone to the middle of the ears with a slanting part on each side. The hair in each back section was combed straight down with the head bent to the front. The hair was cut with one finger (the middle finger) under it. The length was about an inch above the shoulder. The cut was parallel to the parting.
Bending the head to the front while cutting the back perimeter makes these cuts on the perimeter shorter than later cuts when the head is straight up and down. This allows the hair at the perimeter to curl under at the perimeter.
This would be the way to cut the triangular haircut in general. The slant of the partings is a guide to how much slant the perimeter hair line will have when the hair is cut parallel to the part.
The one finger elevation gives a slight graduation to the end of the hair at the perimeter. The result is a perimeter with slight graduation and a slightly increasing length of the perimeter from the center out.
The other technique used was point cutting across the perimeter. It was cut by pointing the ends of the shears into the hair to the desired guide. Point cutting at the perimeter generally makes the perimeter line softer.
A point here ( no pun intended) is that point cutting also tends to direct the hair away from the side with the short hair to the side with the long hair. This the law that short pushes long. All this means that if you want the perimeter to push in one direction then cut the points so the short side of the points are away from the desired direction. In this video the points were cut with the short side toward the center so the perimeter in the back would push away from the center further encouraging the already shorter strands in the center back (because of the triangular cut) to push to the longer strands nearer the sides
The next section in the back was from the top of the ear to above the occipital bone. It was made on an angle parallel to the first parting which had gone to the middle of the ear.
In this section, the hair was combed straight down and point cut to the guide from the first section. One finger elevation was used here also.
Next a horse shoe section was taken about an inch up from the previous section to the top of the ear. This horse shoe section extended to the recession area just above the parietal ridge. The head is now straight up and down.
The hair is again combed down and point cut with one finger elevation. It follows the guide in the back.
On the sides it was cut more like a round cut with a shorter perimeter going toward the front. This was done by angling the fingers up to the jaw line in the front.
The combination of these perimeter cuts was to give the longest length to the perimeter below the mastoid area. There was an increase in length of the perimeter from the center of the nape to below the mastoid area. This is the way a triangular haircut develops. In front of the mastoid area the perimeter was angled up like a round cut. The haircut has a slightly round look in front and a triangular look from behind.
When the first horse shoe parting is done, more horseshoe partings are continued above and point cut to the guide with one finger elevation.
Now a parting from crown to back of ear is made. This followed by pivotal radial sections in the back. These are pulled to 90 degrees from the round of the head in the back and they are point cut to follow the head shape. Cutting to follow the head shape makes the layers convex with them being short in the center, longer at the round of the head and then shorter again. This type will tend to emphasize the head shape and to cover imperfections in head shape.
The guide is taken from below in the section after the part of the perimeter that does not reach falls out. The last section behind the ear is directed back to keep the triangular shape in the back.
More radial sections are now taken in front of the ear and all are over directed back to behind the ear. Cut with point cutting.
The effect of all this is to have layers that have been pulled between 90 degrees and 180 degrees from the parietal ridge. The layers are intermediate in length, convex in shape, and help to give a pleasing head shape.
The bangs were put in with an increase in length from center forehead to the angle in the jaw. This accented the look of a round haircut in front.
Summary:
A haircut with a combination of techniques was seen. In the back it looked like a triangular cut with increasing length toward the front. From the front it looked like a round cut with increasing length from the center forehead to the mastoid area. Layering was done between 90 degrees and 180 degrees ans the length at the perimeter was allowed to drop out.
The model had a strongly prominent forehead which was covered by the bangs. The lower part of the face was opened up to further draw attention to it and away from the prominent forehead.
Saturday, February 27, 2010
Friday, February 26, 2010
W: Round haircut with graduation formula
1. This haircut does not require a round one length haircut to start it.
2. Section hair with natural part to crown and extended it down middle of nape. A center part on top may work as well here. Make another part from apex to behind ears.
3. Make part from front hairline slightly above eyebrow and slanting down and above ear about 1/2 ". Extend this part to the part from apex to behind ear described in 2. above. This is a diagonal back section.
4. Pull section parallel to part and elevate to 45 degrees and cut. Hair is over directed a little toward face to keep the shape of round cut with length increasing toward back. This is the same as in cutting the round one length haircut. This also puts the hair where it is worn.
Added note: Elevation is 45 degrees down from the horizontal in the room. One set of instructions says to keep this consistent. The elevation down 45 degrees from horizontal is down from a line parallel to the floor at the top of the section. This is the same as elevation up 45 degrees from a line parallel to the floor at the bottom of the section.
5. Take more sections up the head at same angle. Comb to previous section as guide and cut at 45 degrees. Work up to complete sections along the natural part. This hair is combed down onto the previous section. It is then elevated with the previous section to 45 degrees from the head and it is cut to the guide provided in the previously cut section.
6. Do opposite front same as above.
7. Go to back section and part off sections parallel to hairline.
8. Elevate to 45 degrees from head and cut
9. Continue with parallel partings and extend them to other side in back when you reach the middle of nape. Elevate to 45 degrees. The guide is to the previous section.
10. Work around the back keeping the cutting round by following the curve of the head. This will cut into the other quadrant in the back in the nape before finishing the original back quadrant.
11. Move to other back section and repeat.
12. Cross check front with diagonal back sections at same elevation.
What I don't know:
a. Center part or natural part on top?
b. Can vertical graduation also be used on sides and back?
Review PM Round one length with graduation.
This is very similar to cutting the one length round hair cut but the hair is elevated to 45 degrees as it is cut. The guide is taken from the previously cut section.
2. Section hair with natural part to crown and extended it down middle of nape. A center part on top may work as well here. Make another part from apex to behind ears.
3. Make part from front hairline slightly above eyebrow and slanting down and above ear about 1/2 ". Extend this part to the part from apex to behind ear described in 2. above. This is a diagonal back section.
4. Pull section parallel to part and elevate to 45 degrees and cut. Hair is over directed a little toward face to keep the shape of round cut with length increasing toward back. This is the same as in cutting the round one length haircut. This also puts the hair where it is worn.
Added note: Elevation is 45 degrees down from the horizontal in the room. One set of instructions says to keep this consistent. The elevation down 45 degrees from horizontal is down from a line parallel to the floor at the top of the section. This is the same as elevation up 45 degrees from a line parallel to the floor at the bottom of the section.
5. Take more sections up the head at same angle. Comb to previous section as guide and cut at 45 degrees. Work up to complete sections along the natural part. This hair is combed down onto the previous section. It is then elevated with the previous section to 45 degrees from the head and it is cut to the guide provided in the previously cut section.
6. Do opposite front same as above.
7. Go to back section and part off sections parallel to hairline.
8. Elevate to 45 degrees from head and cut
9. Continue with parallel partings and extend them to other side in back when you reach the middle of nape. Elevate to 45 degrees. The guide is to the previous section.
10. Work around the back keeping the cutting round by following the curve of the head. This will cut into the other quadrant in the back in the nape before finishing the original back quadrant.
11. Move to other back section and repeat.
12. Cross check front with diagonal back sections at same elevation.
What I don't know:
a. Center part or natural part on top?
b. Can vertical graduation also be used on sides and back?
Review PM Round one length with graduation.
This is very similar to cutting the one length round hair cut but the hair is elevated to 45 degrees as it is cut. The guide is taken from the previously cut section.
Thursday, February 25, 2010
W: Round haircut with layers formula
1. Cut round haircut per a previous post.
Added note: when you start with a foundation haircut, as in this case, it means you don't cut into the perimeter when cutting the layers.
2. Resection the hair with a center part and a part from apex to behind ears.
3. Decide on the type of layering.
a. Longer round haircuts may do well with long layers meaning the hair is all directed straight up and cut flat to the ceiling.
b. Shorter haircuts may be better fit with short layers cut at 90 degrees straight up from top of head and then round around the parietal ridge area.
c. Some have suggested that 90 degrees cut to follow the head form (instead of flat with the ceiling and wall ) may give a rounder form.
4. Measure the correct length for the guide by determining where the beginning of the layers and the end of the layers will fall.
Another method is to measure the length of the hair behind the top of the ear. This is measured in the round haircut that is done as a foundation before putting in the layers. This will be a guide to how long the layers on the top of the head and around the parietal ridge should be.
a. Do this by taking a horizontal section at the apex. Elevate this to 90 degrees and place your holding fingers at the estimated cutting line. The piece of this section closest to the apex should be grabbed and slowly lowered to show where the layers will start.
b. Use the same length at the outer most part of the horizontal section (the piece furthest from the apex) and continue the section through the parietal ridge. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The outer part of this, when held at the estimated cutting line, can now be lowered to show where the layers will stop. When you have the right estimated cutting line for your design, you can cut the layers as decided.
Review PM Round haircut with layers.
1. Cut a round haircut per a previous note.
2. Divide hair into four sections with a center top part through the nape and a part from the apex to the ears.
3. Measure length of the layers by measuring the length of the hair behind the ears.
4. Take center part from apex to front hairline and create a section in the center top from apex to front hairline.
5. Elevate the section 90 degrees following the round of the head. Measure the length at the apex and cut the hair following the round of the head to the front hairline.
6. Pivot sections around the apex and over direct the section to the previous section for the guide. Follow the round of the head to do the cutting. Cut the hair on side opposite of where you are standing.
7. Continue taking sections in this manner until reaching the part from the apex to the ear. Cut to the perimeter but not into the perimeter.
8. Return to center top and do the other side the same way.
9. Go to the part behind the ear. Start taking pivoting sections continuing the pattern from the front. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The length at the perimeter will drop. Cut from the apex toward the perimeter. Over direct to the previous section. This is a forward over direction.
10. Continue sections a section beyond the center part in the nape.
11. Then go to the other back section at the part line from the apex to the ear.
Added note: when you start with a foundation haircut, as in this case, it means you don't cut into the perimeter when cutting the layers.
2. Resection the hair with a center part and a part from apex to behind ears.
3. Decide on the type of layering.
a. Longer round haircuts may do well with long layers meaning the hair is all directed straight up and cut flat to the ceiling.
b. Shorter haircuts may be better fit with short layers cut at 90 degrees straight up from top of head and then round around the parietal ridge area.
c. Some have suggested that 90 degrees cut to follow the head form (instead of flat with the ceiling and wall ) may give a rounder form.
4. Measure the correct length for the guide by determining where the beginning of the layers and the end of the layers will fall.
Another method is to measure the length of the hair behind the top of the ear. This is measured in the round haircut that is done as a foundation before putting in the layers. This will be a guide to how long the layers on the top of the head and around the parietal ridge should be.
a. Do this by taking a horizontal section at the apex. Elevate this to 90 degrees and place your holding fingers at the estimated cutting line. The piece of this section closest to the apex should be grabbed and slowly lowered to show where the layers will start.
b. Use the same length at the outer most part of the horizontal section (the piece furthest from the apex) and continue the section through the parietal ridge. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The outer part of this, when held at the estimated cutting line, can now be lowered to show where the layers will stop. When you have the right estimated cutting line for your design, you can cut the layers as decided.
Review PM Round haircut with layers.
1. Cut a round haircut per a previous note.
2. Divide hair into four sections with a center top part through the nape and a part from the apex to the ears.
3. Measure length of the layers by measuring the length of the hair behind the ears.
4. Take center part from apex to front hairline and create a section in the center top from apex to front hairline.
5. Elevate the section 90 degrees following the round of the head. Measure the length at the apex and cut the hair following the round of the head to the front hairline.
6. Pivot sections around the apex and over direct the section to the previous section for the guide. Follow the round of the head to do the cutting. Cut the hair on side opposite of where you are standing.
7. Continue taking sections in this manner until reaching the part from the apex to the ear. Cut to the perimeter but not into the perimeter.
8. Return to center top and do the other side the same way.
9. Go to the part behind the ear. Start taking pivoting sections continuing the pattern from the front. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The length at the perimeter will drop. Cut from the apex toward the perimeter. Over direct to the previous section. This is a forward over direction.
10. Continue sections a section beyond the center part in the nape.
11. Then go to the other back section at the part line from the apex to the ear.
W: Round one length formula
1. Natural part to crown. Also part from apex to behind ears.
2. In front start a diagonal back part about eyebrow height in front. See bottom figure above.
3. Continue this to the back center in the nape where it is rounded. Part other side. See top figure above.
4. Cut parallel to part from front to back and then go to other side. Hold in comb for cutting.
5. Take parts parallel to first part up the head and cut until natural part is reached.
6. Do same on other side.
2. In front start a diagonal back part about eyebrow height in front. See bottom figure above.
3. Continue this to the back center in the nape where it is rounded. Part other side. See top figure above.
4. Cut parallel to part from front to back and then go to other side. Hold in comb for cutting.
5. Take parts parallel to first part up the head and cut until natural part is reached.
6. Do same on other side.
Wednesday, February 24, 2010
W: One length with graduation formula
1. Cut one length haircut per previous post. Four sections either with natural part or central part on top and a part from apex to behind ears.
2 Part horizontally at occipital bone.
Cut vertical graduation in the back.
3. Subsection back large sections by taking vertical sections that are wider at the bottom than at the top. Part will go from center part to slightly wider toward the perimeter. Parts will angle away from center on each side of center. This makes them vertical diagonal sections.
4. Direct the subsections straight back. When you get to the corner behind the mastoid this will cause a lot of over direction back and this will leave hair at this corner.
Each subsection in the larger panel is slightly over directed to the previous section for a guide.
Added note: If the sections are not directed straight back but instead directed straight out from the head surface, the final form of the haircut will be more rounded and there will be less hair at the corner behind the ear.
Cut with graduation about 45 degrees. Do both sides in the larger sections.
Another Added Note: 12/25/10
In reviewing this haircut, two types of graduation were seen. The first is in the back area from the nape hair line to the apex, the sections are elevated to 90 degrees which means they are all parallel to the floor. These are then cut with a finger angle/shear angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the hair.
The second type of elevation is that used on the sides from the mastoid process to the front hair line. On the sides, the hair is elevated to 45 degrees. This 45 degrees is measured from the hair in natural fall which is zero degrees. In zero degrees the hair is pointing down to the floor, so on the sides the hair is elevated up 45 degrees before cutting. Once the section is elevated, it is then cut with a finger angle of 90 degrees. On the sides, horizontal sections are used. The hair is elevated to 45 degrees and cut straight across the hair grain which is being held at an elevation of 45 degrees.
In the first type of elevation, the line of graduation is higher than in the second type of elevation.
This means the line of graduation is lower and shorter on the sides than in the back.
Another note on these ideas is in the note "Graduation Parameters" published in this blog on 11/26/10.
Added note: In cutting this graduation, a key to keeping it uniform is to keep the elevation the same in all sections. Holding each section at 45 degrees means keeping it at 45 degrees down from horizontal. If you hold the section parallel to the floor it is at 90 degrees. Lower it to from parallel to the floor to 45 degrees from the horizontal.
Holding the fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will put the line of graduation near the bottom of the section. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees to the hair, moves the line of graduation higher up the section from the hairline.
An Added Note: Let the bottom part of the diagonal vertical section fall out before cutting the section. This is shown in the Sassoon ab cut in their ABC cutting course. This leaves the bottom of the section well defined.
5. Next large section is taken up to the crown. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.
6. Next large section from crown to apex. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.
Cut horizontal graduation on sides.
7. Move to side of head. Pull guide from behind ear and take horizontal section in front and cut to guide. Hold hair at 45 degrees from head. Cannot have graduation where no hair grows so front is shorter than the back.
8. Continue horizontal sections and over direct to previous section and hold at 45 degrees down from horizontal.
Work to part.
Over direction to the previous section is done by pulling the new section out at 45 degrees. Then comb up the section just below the new to the new section. Cut the hair to the guide from the section below.
9. Do same on other side.
10. Cross check horizontally in back and vertically on sides
What I don't know:
A. Why center part or natural part.
B. Why not just take horizontal sections in the back. You can do this.
Review PM Square one length with graduation
In the back, fingers are up and the cut is palm to palm on the left side of client. This hair is cut from the top down.
On the right side, the fingers holding the hair are pointed down and the hair is cut palm to palm.
Hair is cut up in pieces of the diagonal forward sections starting at the top and working to the bottom.
Added note: This haircut could also be cut with 90 degrees of elevation of the section. This would lengthen the length of the straight line seen in the graduation.
If cutting at 90 degrees of elevation, holding the hair with fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will keep the line of graduation close to the hair line. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees will move the line of graduation up from the hair line.
2 Part horizontally at occipital bone.
Cut vertical graduation in the back.
3. Subsection back large sections by taking vertical sections that are wider at the bottom than at the top. Part will go from center part to slightly wider toward the perimeter. Parts will angle away from center on each side of center. This makes them vertical diagonal sections.
4. Direct the subsections straight back. When you get to the corner behind the mastoid this will cause a lot of over direction back and this will leave hair at this corner.
Each subsection in the larger panel is slightly over directed to the previous section for a guide.
Added note: If the sections are not directed straight back but instead directed straight out from the head surface, the final form of the haircut will be more rounded and there will be less hair at the corner behind the ear.
Cut with graduation about 45 degrees. Do both sides in the larger sections.
Another Added Note: 12/25/10
In reviewing this haircut, two types of graduation were seen. The first is in the back area from the nape hair line to the apex, the sections are elevated to 90 degrees which means they are all parallel to the floor. These are then cut with a finger angle/shear angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the hair.
The second type of elevation is that used on the sides from the mastoid process to the front hair line. On the sides, the hair is elevated to 45 degrees. This 45 degrees is measured from the hair in natural fall which is zero degrees. In zero degrees the hair is pointing down to the floor, so on the sides the hair is elevated up 45 degrees before cutting. Once the section is elevated, it is then cut with a finger angle of 90 degrees. On the sides, horizontal sections are used. The hair is elevated to 45 degrees and cut straight across the hair grain which is being held at an elevation of 45 degrees.
In the first type of elevation, the line of graduation is higher than in the second type of elevation.
This means the line of graduation is lower and shorter on the sides than in the back.
Another note on these ideas is in the note "Graduation Parameters" published in this blog on 11/26/10.
Added note: In cutting this graduation, a key to keeping it uniform is to keep the elevation the same in all sections. Holding each section at 45 degrees means keeping it at 45 degrees down from horizontal. If you hold the section parallel to the floor it is at 90 degrees. Lower it to from parallel to the floor to 45 degrees from the horizontal.
Holding the fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will put the line of graduation near the bottom of the section. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees to the hair, moves the line of graduation higher up the section from the hairline.
An Added Note: Let the bottom part of the diagonal vertical section fall out before cutting the section. This is shown in the Sassoon ab cut in their ABC cutting course. This leaves the bottom of the section well defined.
5. Next large section is taken up to the crown. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.
6. Next large section from crown to apex. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.
Cut horizontal graduation on sides.
7. Move to side of head. Pull guide from behind ear and take horizontal section in front and cut to guide. Hold hair at 45 degrees from head. Cannot have graduation where no hair grows so front is shorter than the back.
8. Continue horizontal sections and over direct to previous section and hold at 45 degrees down from horizontal.
Work to part.
Over direction to the previous section is done by pulling the new section out at 45 degrees. Then comb up the section just below the new to the new section. Cut the hair to the guide from the section below.
9. Do same on other side.
10. Cross check horizontally in back and vertically on sides
What I don't know:
A. Why center part or natural part.
B. Why not just take horizontal sections in the back. You can do this.
Review PM Square one length with graduation
In the back, fingers are up and the cut is palm to palm on the left side of client. This hair is cut from the top down.
On the right side, the fingers holding the hair are pointed down and the hair is cut palm to palm.
Hair is cut up in pieces of the diagonal forward sections starting at the top and working to the bottom.
Added note: This haircut could also be cut with 90 degrees of elevation of the section. This would lengthen the length of the straight line seen in the graduation.
If cutting at 90 degrees of elevation, holding the hair with fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will keep the line of graduation close to the hair line. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees will move the line of graduation up from the hair line.
A visit to the hairshow
Went to the Atlanta hair show last weekend with the purpose of taking as many cutting classes as I could.
The overall experience was mixed. Many of the teachers were one man/woman shows with a lot of emphasis on selling their personal DVDs, getting you to subscribe to their newsletter, join their club, or hiring them to come to teach at your salon.
There was one completely professional presentation by Andis which was done by Ivan Zoot. In this he gave real data on Andis products and then gave clear demonstrations on how to use clippers in different techniques.
For the other presentations, the presenter was portraying him or herself as knowing something that the rest of the industry did not quite understand. It was not clear where they learned their stuff but the emphasis was on their years of cutting experience. Most had vibrant personalities and were likeable. Oh, and by the way did I mention they had DVDs for sale?!
One group pulled a bait and switch telling you you would get a sample of the product and a DVD showing how to use. When you got to their class you were told you would not get the product or the DVD.
Technical descriptions were lacking when compared with the kind of instruction I have received at Sassoon classes or from American Crew home study.
This raises the question of what should you expect from a free class. Other than the presentation by Andis, my expectation is that a lot of the class will be devoted to how wonderful the presenter is in their own estimation. A lot more will be devoted to how useful their products will be to you. No data is given about the products. No showing of the DVDs was seen. No data on their brand of moisturizer or shampoo or other products was given. Anecdotal fluff was the general rule.
I could not find any free classes by any company that was known for education except for Andis. Paul Mitchell, Sassoon, American Crew, and Redken did not have free classes or paid classes I could find.
It does seem many people do learn to cut hair with experience being the major teacher. It is not clear that this qualifies them to be teachers of what they do. They don't seem to know how to put into precise words what they do. This is the difference between the self-made cutter and the major brands listed above.
There was some good stuff in most of the classes. For example I saw how a teacher cut hair by cutting hair into the desired shape without using partings or sections. It resembled free hand sculpting. In general the good stuff could have been covered in less than 5 minutes. Thank goodness I am not bitter.
A couple of stylist from out of town told me they never went to presentations. They only came to hair shows for the product prices.
The overall experience was mixed. Many of the teachers were one man/woman shows with a lot of emphasis on selling their personal DVDs, getting you to subscribe to their newsletter, join their club, or hiring them to come to teach at your salon.
There was one completely professional presentation by Andis which was done by Ivan Zoot. In this he gave real data on Andis products and then gave clear demonstrations on how to use clippers in different techniques.
For the other presentations, the presenter was portraying him or herself as knowing something that the rest of the industry did not quite understand. It was not clear where they learned their stuff but the emphasis was on their years of cutting experience. Most had vibrant personalities and were likeable. Oh, and by the way did I mention they had DVDs for sale?!
One group pulled a bait and switch telling you you would get a sample of the product and a DVD showing how to use. When you got to their class you were told you would not get the product or the DVD.
Technical descriptions were lacking when compared with the kind of instruction I have received at Sassoon classes or from American Crew home study.
This raises the question of what should you expect from a free class. Other than the presentation by Andis, my expectation is that a lot of the class will be devoted to how wonderful the presenter is in their own estimation. A lot more will be devoted to how useful their products will be to you. No data is given about the products. No showing of the DVDs was seen. No data on their brand of moisturizer or shampoo or other products was given. Anecdotal fluff was the general rule.
I could not find any free classes by any company that was known for education except for Andis. Paul Mitchell, Sassoon, American Crew, and Redken did not have free classes or paid classes I could find.
It does seem many people do learn to cut hair with experience being the major teacher. It is not clear that this qualifies them to be teachers of what they do. They don't seem to know how to put into precise words what they do. This is the difference between the self-made cutter and the major brands listed above.
There was some good stuff in most of the classes. For example I saw how a teacher cut hair by cutting hair into the desired shape without using partings or sections. It resembled free hand sculpting. In general the good stuff could have been covered in less than 5 minutes. Thank goodness I am not bitter.
A couple of stylist from out of town told me they never went to presentations. They only came to hair shows for the product prices.
Saturday, February 20, 2010
Some ideas on layering.
These are some preliminary thoughts as I try to understand layers.
Layering at 180 degrees is pulling the hair up from the bottom and cutting it flat to the ceiling. On top of the head this is the same as a 90 degree layering because the top of the head is nearly parallel with the ceiling.
The longest layers are 180 degree layers because the hair is pulled from hanging straight down to the flat plane above the head. On the sides the hair is pulled from 0 degrees as it hangs straight down to 180 degrees as it is pulled straight up toward the ceiling.
The term "longest layers" indicates that the length from where the layering starts to where it ends. Long layers end lower than shorter layers. Longer layers have more length removed from the higher part of the layering and less from the the bottom of the layering and this difference is spread over a greater distance.
On top of the head the longest layers are 90 degrees. There are no 180 degrees layers on top of the head.
Any layering less than 180 degrees is shorter than the 180 degree layering.
The shortest layers can be are when the hair is pulled 90 degrees from the head. Pulling less than 90 degrees is no longer layering and is instead graduation if the hair is cut perpendicular to the hair strands. If it is cut parallel to the wall (or straight up and down) the layering will have shorter lengths on top of the side of the head and longer layer sections in the bottom half of the head.
If you have a hair design with the longest layering on the top, you pull the hair straight up to 90 degrees.
If this design then calls for long layers on the side, continue to pull the hair on the sides up to 180 degrees and cut to the plane parallel to the ceiling.
If the design is for shorter layers on the side. Pull the hair on the sides to 90 degrees from the head form to the side and cut parallel to the wall.
For this kind of cut use the length on the top layers as the guide length for the layers on the side so they will connect smoothly.
Of course, on the side, layers can be any intermediate value from 90 degrees to 180 degrees depending on the desired effect or design.
Pulling sections to 90 degrees and cutting perpendicular to the hair shafts will give a uniform length at all places. Cutting at 90 degrees like this follows the head shape.
Flat layering can be done by pulling a vertical section to 90 degrees and cutting straight up and down. This is the same as cutting on a perpendicular line from the floor to the ceiling. This does not follow the head shape. Cutting straight up and down leaves the hair longer where the head shape curves away from the up and down line. It leaves the hair shorter where the head shape curves toward the up and down line.
These sections do not have to be cut straight up and down. For example, it could be cut shorter on the top of the section and longer at the bottom of the section. Here the shears are no longer on a perpendicular line from ceiling to floor. Now the shears are closer at the top of the head and farther from the head at the bottom of the section. This cutting does not follow the head shape. It follows a line that starts closer to the head and the top and slants away from the head as it goes down. The length of the hair increases both as the head shape curves away from this line and as the slant of the cutting line goes away from the head.
Cutting on this slanting line creates a concave section. This means that the length of the hair closest to the top of the head is shorter than the hair closer to the perimeter which is longer.
This type of cut would be used to cover a less dense hair line. In this case, the longer length of the hair near the perimeter will fall over the less dense hair line.
Cutting the hair with a concave shape can be modified to emphasize or to cover different parts of the head shape.
To build weight above the parietal ridge, cut the top short enough that the top of the section does not fall over the parietal ridge. This will leave weight above the parietal ridge which will diminish over the parietal ridge. The increasing length below the parietal ridge will add length and weight below the parietal ridge.
If weight is not needed above the parietal ridge, a longer length can be can be cut at the top that will fall over the parietal ridge. Below the parietal ridge the longer length will be continued by the concave cutting . This will add more length and weight below the parietal ridge to smooth exaggerated differences in head width.
Layering at 180 degrees is pulling the hair up from the bottom and cutting it flat to the ceiling. On top of the head this is the same as a 90 degree layering because the top of the head is nearly parallel with the ceiling.
The longest layers are 180 degree layers because the hair is pulled from hanging straight down to the flat plane above the head. On the sides the hair is pulled from 0 degrees as it hangs straight down to 180 degrees as it is pulled straight up toward the ceiling.
The term "longest layers" indicates that the length from where the layering starts to where it ends. Long layers end lower than shorter layers. Longer layers have more length removed from the higher part of the layering and less from the the bottom of the layering and this difference is spread over a greater distance.
On top of the head the longest layers are 90 degrees. There are no 180 degrees layers on top of the head.
Any layering less than 180 degrees is shorter than the 180 degree layering.
The shortest layers can be are when the hair is pulled 90 degrees from the head. Pulling less than 90 degrees is no longer layering and is instead graduation if the hair is cut perpendicular to the hair strands. If it is cut parallel to the wall (or straight up and down) the layering will have shorter lengths on top of the side of the head and longer layer sections in the bottom half of the head.
If you have a hair design with the longest layering on the top, you pull the hair straight up to 90 degrees.
If this design then calls for long layers on the side, continue to pull the hair on the sides up to 180 degrees and cut to the plane parallel to the ceiling.
If the design is for shorter layers on the side. Pull the hair on the sides to 90 degrees from the head form to the side and cut parallel to the wall.
For this kind of cut use the length on the top layers as the guide length for the layers on the side so they will connect smoothly.
Of course, on the side, layers can be any intermediate value from 90 degrees to 180 degrees depending on the desired effect or design.
Pulling sections to 90 degrees and cutting perpendicular to the hair shafts will give a uniform length at all places. Cutting at 90 degrees like this follows the head shape.
Flat layering can be done by pulling a vertical section to 90 degrees and cutting straight up and down. This is the same as cutting on a perpendicular line from the floor to the ceiling. This does not follow the head shape. Cutting straight up and down leaves the hair longer where the head shape curves away from the up and down line. It leaves the hair shorter where the head shape curves toward the up and down line.
These sections do not have to be cut straight up and down. For example, it could be cut shorter on the top of the section and longer at the bottom of the section. Here the shears are no longer on a perpendicular line from ceiling to floor. Now the shears are closer at the top of the head and farther from the head at the bottom of the section. This cutting does not follow the head shape. It follows a line that starts closer to the head and the top and slants away from the head as it goes down. The length of the hair increases both as the head shape curves away from this line and as the slant of the cutting line goes away from the head.
Cutting on this slanting line creates a concave section. This means that the length of the hair closest to the top of the head is shorter than the hair closer to the perimeter which is longer.
This type of cut would be used to cover a less dense hair line. In this case, the longer length of the hair near the perimeter will fall over the less dense hair line.
Cutting the hair with a concave shape can be modified to emphasize or to cover different parts of the head shape.
To build weight above the parietal ridge, cut the top short enough that the top of the section does not fall over the parietal ridge. This will leave weight above the parietal ridge which will diminish over the parietal ridge. The increasing length below the parietal ridge will add length and weight below the parietal ridge.
If weight is not needed above the parietal ridge, a longer length can be can be cut at the top that will fall over the parietal ridge. Below the parietal ridge the longer length will be continued by the concave cutting . This will add more length and weight below the parietal ridge to smooth exaggerated differences in head width.
Friday, February 19, 2010
W: One length haircut- Square with layers formula
1. Cut hair at one length with same length on back and sides per previous post.
2. Section into four sections with a center part on top through the nape, and a part from apex to behind ears.
3. Measure where you want start the layers and where you want them to stop:
For shorter layers on the side. See post about ideas on layering.
3.a Take a horizontal section at the front hairline extending from the center to the top of the parietal ridge.
b. From in front ( or in back) of the model hold this horizontal section between the first two fingers of the left hand at the estimated length of the flat cut parallel to the ceiling.
c. In the right hand pinch the end of this section (at the estimated cut line) that is closest to the center of the head and separate it from the horizontal section. Continue to hold the other part of the horizontal section with the left hand.
d. Drop the section in the right hand slowly so you can see exactly how far it will go down the head. Take note of this. It is where the tapering will begin. Remember if this is eye level, nose level, chin level, etc. Be sure to put a clip at the spot so you can go back to it.
e. Now take the end of the original horizontal section closest to the parietal ridge and hold this in the right hand with the thumb and first finger at the estimated cutting line.
f. Pull this out to 90 degrees from the parietal ridge and take a vertical section below it to the bottom hair line while holding the position of the estimated cut. The bottom of this section should be held in the right hand between the thumb and first finger.
g. Lower this piece slowly and see where it stops. This will be where the layering will stop. Take note of a physical landmark like lips or chin where the pieces reaches. This is the lower boundary of the taper.
h. If these agree with your design, you are ready to start cutting. If not then redo the original horizontal section on top and move the cut line up or down to change where the taper will fall. The higher the cut is from the scalp the lower the tapered area will fall, and the lower the cut line the higher the tapered area will be.
For longer layers on the side. See post about ideas on layering.
3.1 Do the same steps in 3.a, 3.b, 3.c, and 3.d as for shorter layers above.
3.2 Continue the horizontal section in 3.a above to the side as a vertical section on the side.
3.3 Comb the vertical section straight up to the ceiling.
3. 4 Place the holding fingers of the left hand at the estimated cutting level as was done in 3.b above. Not all the hair from this section may reach the estimated cutting level. Let the parts that don't reach fall.
3.5 Take the hair strands from the remaining hair in the section to be cut and hold them at the estimated cutting height.
3.6 Take the strands farthest from the middle of the head and slowly let them fall to see where the bottom of the layering will fall. Note a physical landmark like jawline.
3.7 As in 3.h above, if this fits your design you are ready to start cutting the layers. If not redo the horizontal and vertical sections and adjust the height of the cutting line.
4. On top center of the head take a vertical section down the middle of the head. This section will go from the front hairline to the crown.
5. Cut this section flat with the ceiling at the length determined in 3 above. Use this as a guide for vertical sections on the top and cut both sides of center to the beginning of the parietal ridge.
6. When step 5. is finished go to the sides.
6.a For shorter layers on the side, pull the guide from the top 90 degrees to the parietal region and take vertical sections. Cut flat with the wall.
6.b For longer layers, horizontal layers can be taken and combed straight up to the guide at the top. Continue to cut these flat to the ceiling. Stop when the layers no longer reach.
Added Note: Some instruction sees 90 degrees of elevation (horizontal to the floor) as in the range of graduation and not in the range of layering.
Elevating the hair 90 degrees from the head (horizontal to the floor) is seen as graduation. Holding the hair so it will be cut straight up and down means the hair will be cut perpendicular to the floor. This will move the line of graduation higher off the hairline compared to cutting the hair at 45 degrees. While the hair is held parallel to the floor, it is usually cut at 45 degrees by pointing the scissors toward the client's neck. This moves the line of graduation closer to the hairline compared to cutting it straight up and down (perpendicular to the floor).
These techniques are still seen as graduating the hair. To cut layers the hair has to be elevated above the line parallel to the floor. This means it has to be above the line horizontal to the floor.
2. Section into four sections with a center part on top through the nape, and a part from apex to behind ears.
3. Measure where you want start the layers and where you want them to stop:
For shorter layers on the side. See post about ideas on layering.
3.a Take a horizontal section at the front hairline extending from the center to the top of the parietal ridge.
b. From in front ( or in back) of the model hold this horizontal section between the first two fingers of the left hand at the estimated length of the flat cut parallel to the ceiling.
c. In the right hand pinch the end of this section (at the estimated cut line) that is closest to the center of the head and separate it from the horizontal section. Continue to hold the other part of the horizontal section with the left hand.
d. Drop the section in the right hand slowly so you can see exactly how far it will go down the head. Take note of this. It is where the tapering will begin. Remember if this is eye level, nose level, chin level, etc. Be sure to put a clip at the spot so you can go back to it.
e. Now take the end of the original horizontal section closest to the parietal ridge and hold this in the right hand with the thumb and first finger at the estimated cutting line.
f. Pull this out to 90 degrees from the parietal ridge and take a vertical section below it to the bottom hair line while holding the position of the estimated cut. The bottom of this section should be held in the right hand between the thumb and first finger.
g. Lower this piece slowly and see where it stops. This will be where the layering will stop. Take note of a physical landmark like lips or chin where the pieces reaches. This is the lower boundary of the taper.
h. If these agree with your design, you are ready to start cutting. If not then redo the original horizontal section on top and move the cut line up or down to change where the taper will fall. The higher the cut is from the scalp the lower the tapered area will fall, and the lower the cut line the higher the tapered area will be.
For longer layers on the side. See post about ideas on layering.
3.1 Do the same steps in 3.a, 3.b, 3.c, and 3.d as for shorter layers above.
3.2 Continue the horizontal section in 3.a above to the side as a vertical section on the side.
3.3 Comb the vertical section straight up to the ceiling.
3. 4 Place the holding fingers of the left hand at the estimated cutting level as was done in 3.b above. Not all the hair from this section may reach the estimated cutting level. Let the parts that don't reach fall.
3.5 Take the hair strands from the remaining hair in the section to be cut and hold them at the estimated cutting height.
3.6 Take the strands farthest from the middle of the head and slowly let them fall to see where the bottom of the layering will fall. Note a physical landmark like jawline.
3.7 As in 3.h above, if this fits your design you are ready to start cutting the layers. If not redo the horizontal and vertical sections and adjust the height of the cutting line.
4. On top center of the head take a vertical section down the middle of the head. This section will go from the front hairline to the crown.
5. Cut this section flat with the ceiling at the length determined in 3 above. Use this as a guide for vertical sections on the top and cut both sides of center to the beginning of the parietal ridge.
6. When step 5. is finished go to the sides.
6.a For shorter layers on the side, pull the guide from the top 90 degrees to the parietal region and take vertical sections. Cut flat with the wall.
6.b For longer layers, horizontal layers can be taken and combed straight up to the guide at the top. Continue to cut these flat to the ceiling. Stop when the layers no longer reach.
Added Note: Some instruction sees 90 degrees of elevation (horizontal to the floor) as in the range of graduation and not in the range of layering.
Elevating the hair 90 degrees from the head (horizontal to the floor) is seen as graduation. Holding the hair so it will be cut straight up and down means the hair will be cut perpendicular to the floor. This will move the line of graduation higher off the hairline compared to cutting the hair at 45 degrees. While the hair is held parallel to the floor, it is usually cut at 45 degrees by pointing the scissors toward the client's neck. This moves the line of graduation closer to the hairline compared to cutting it straight up and down (perpendicular to the floor).
These techniques are still seen as graduating the hair. To cut layers the hair has to be elevated above the line parallel to the floor. This means it has to be above the line horizontal to the floor.
W:One length haircut- same length front, back and sides formula
1. Part from center of forehead to nape and from apex to behind ears. Can also use natural part on top if preferred by client. Connect natural part to center nape through crown.
2. At center back, part 1/2" horizontal sections from nape hairline both sides.
3. Hold hair in comb parallel to floor and cut at desired length. Do both sides
4. Work up to line from apex to ears.
5. Move to sides. Drop 1/2 to 1" section on side. Comb hair down and split over ear.
6. Use section behind ear and cut to guide from the nape area. Then cut piece in front of ear. Stand on side of head.
7. Next section on side is 1/2". Comb straight down and compensate for protrusion of ear by tapping hair with shears over ear. Then cut to guide from front section.
8. Work up to part.
9. Repeat on other side.
2. At center back, part 1/2" horizontal sections from nape hairline both sides.
3. Hold hair in comb parallel to floor and cut at desired length. Do both sides
4. Work up to line from apex to ears.
5. Move to sides. Drop 1/2 to 1" section on side. Comb hair down and split over ear.
6. Use section behind ear and cut to guide from the nape area. Then cut piece in front of ear. Stand on side of head.
7. Next section on side is 1/2". Comb straight down and compensate for protrusion of ear by tapping hair with shears over ear. Then cut to guide from front section.
8. Work up to part.
9. Repeat on other side.
Tuesday, February 16, 2010
About Haircut Formulas
Haircut formulas will be described for different haircuts. These are an attempt to reduce the haircuts to the smallest number of steps I need to take to complete the haircut.
I hope to memorize these formula descriptions, so I have a clear idea of how to start, work through and complete any particular cut.
Once these steps are known, the next step will be to execute them with the precision of good techniques.
I hope to memorize these formula descriptions, so I have a clear idea of how to start, work through and complete any particular cut.
Once these steps are known, the next step will be to execute them with the precision of good techniques.
Finishing a haircut
Many haircuts use the same finishing methods. I will outline these methods so I can memorize them and not put them into the formulas for different haircuts.
1. Check the haircut by sectioning the hair opposite to how it was done in the haircut. For example if one part of the hair was done in vertical subsections, the checking would be by sub sectioning it with horizontal subsections. Elevation must be to the same level as originally cut.
2. Add the product of your choice to the hair to prepare it for blow drying. This is an important step.
3. Blow dry the hair while brushing it side to side and front to back until it is 80% dry. It is important to get the hair near the scalp dry so the final design does not collapse. I have heard that it also lifts the hair from the scalp to give volume to the final design.
4. Re-section the hair as it was done in the haircut and blow dry the sub sections of the hair with a brush to control its final placement in the design. Many people seem to use Denman brushes for this. Others prefer round brushes.
5. Recheck the perimeter of the haircut and define it especially for the client. This might employ techniques like point cutting a part of the perimeter or interior, using shear over comb or clipper over comb to blend transition areas
1. Check the haircut by sectioning the hair opposite to how it was done in the haircut. For example if one part of the hair was done in vertical subsections, the checking would be by sub sectioning it with horizontal subsections. Elevation must be to the same level as originally cut.
2. Add the product of your choice to the hair to prepare it for blow drying. This is an important step.
3. Blow dry the hair while brushing it side to side and front to back until it is 80% dry. It is important to get the hair near the scalp dry so the final design does not collapse. I have heard that it also lifts the hair from the scalp to give volume to the final design.
4. Re-section the hair as it was done in the haircut and blow dry the sub sections of the hair with a brush to control its final placement in the design. Many people seem to use Denman brushes for this. Others prefer round brushes.
5. Recheck the perimeter of the haircut and define it especially for the client. This might employ techniques like point cutting a part of the perimeter or interior, using shear over comb or clipper over comb to blend transition areas
Monday, February 15, 2010
W: Triangular Layers formula
1. Cut the one length triangular haircut as seen in a previous post.
2. Resection the hair into four sections with a center part on top through to the nape hairline and with a part connecting the apex with the tops of the ears.
3. Section off two large sections in the back by parting from the occipital bone to the tops of the ears. Areas 1 and 2.
2. Resection the hair into four sections with a center part on top through to the nape hairline and with a part connecting the apex with the tops of the ears.
3. Section off two large sections in the back by parting from the occipital bone to the tops of the ears. Areas 1 and 2.
4. Start in the center back and take 1/2" vertical subsections.
5. Direct these subsections straight back and cut flat with the wall.The guide is taken from the nape and has been established by the cutting in 1. above. The hair at the top of the section is pulled away from the head and this allows hair at the bottom of the section to fall out if it does not reach. This has the effect of making the guide about 2 inches below the occipital to top of the ear part. Subsequent subsections are over directed to the previous subsection and cut flat with the wall behind the model.
6. Next part from the crown to the LINE connecting the apex to the ears. This part is parallel to the previous part from the occipital bone to the tops of the ears.
This is the upper boundary of Areas 3 and 5.
7. Now connect this parting to the front hairline following the angle established in 6. This is the same thing as making a horseshoe parting around the head from the crown to the front hairline.
Areas 3 is created in the left back and Area 4 is on left side. Area 5 is right back and Area 6 is on the right side.
7. Now connect this parting to the front hairline following the angle established in 6. This is the same thing as making a horseshoe parting around the head from the crown to the front hairline.
Areas 3 is created in the left back and Area 4 is on left side. Area 5 is right back and Area 6 is on the right side.
8. Beginning in the back center make vertical subsections and pull straight back to the wall behind the model. Guide is below in the section cut in 5. Over direct to the previous subsection as was done with the sections in 5. These are cut in Area 3.
9. From the ear forward all sections will be over directed back to the guide established behind the ear. Work to the front hairline on one side and then on the other.
These are cut in Area 4. Areas 5 and 6 are then cut on the right side.
10. The next section is Area 7 between the line from apex to top of ears and the the parting made in 6. above. It is already divided off by partings in 2. and 6. and only needs to be subsectioned. These subsections are horizontal.
11. Comb these subsections straight back to the wall behind the model and cut to the guide in the crown.
12. The center part in the remaining uncut hair on top of the head should be in place from the original partings in 2.
13. On each side of this top center part take horizontal sections from the center to the side connecting the center part to the side at the horseshoe parting.
Area 8 is on the top left side and Area 9 is on the top right side.
14. Comb these horizontal sections back to the wall behind the model and cut to the guide in the crown area.
15. Work toward the front hairline on each side.
Review PM triangular one length layering
4 sections with Center part
Cut triangular one length first.
First occipital to top of ear on each side.
Take vertical 1/2 " section and pull straight back to wall.
Over direct to previous section.
Second is horizontal diagonal forward from low crown to front hair line. First part here is from crown to division from apex to top of ears. Pull back to back wall and cut to the previous section behind the ear. Body on opposite of where cutting.
Second part here is from line to apex to top of ears to front hairline. Continue to pull straight back and onto previous section. Cut outside the fingers.
Third is from low crown to apex. Pull this straight back and cut to guide in the crown. This section is held parallel to the floor ( horizontal section).
Fourth is in front of the apex on one side of top center parting. Sections are taken from the center parting to the side of the head at the horse shoe shaped parting that had been done from the low crown to the front hairline. The sections are directed straight back to the guide in the crown. Cut a flat line horizontally and 90 degrees from the crown area. ( I don't know what this 90 degrees means here. It looks like the hair is pulled straight back which puts it a good distance behind the head. It does look like the stylist elevates the hair here a few inches before cutting.
Cut the other side of the top the same way.
Cross check with diagonal forward sections with same elevation and over direction. Cross check top with front to back sections.
W: Triangular with graduation formula
1. Cut the triangular one length cut as described in the previous post.
2. Section hair again with natural part, center part in nape and a part from apex to ears.
3. At bottom of center nape make a vertical diagonal(aka diagonal forward part) part that starts at center part of nape just below the occipital bone and goes to the middle of the hairline in that section. Make a vertical diagonal part on each side of the center part of nape. Each will point from the center away from each other at the hair line.
4. Pick up hair in the above section and elevate to 45 degrees to the room. (See note below) Cut to follow the parting for the section. Do on both sides of center part using the first section as the guide for the second side.
Added note: to make the bottom line of the hair more solid, let the bottom of the section drop out before cutting the graduation.
The angle the hair is elevated to is 45 degrees down from horizontal. This elevation is held constant while cutting the graduation. To get to this position, first comb the hair straight back so that the hairs in the section are all parallel to the floor. Then lower the ends of the hair 45 degrees. The hairs in the section will still be parallel to each other. They will all be pointing down from the horizontal by 45 degrees. This is the same as pointing up 45 degrees from the horizontal below the hair.
While holding the hair at 45 degrees of elevation it is important that the hair is held over the section it originates from. This means the hair is not over the section above this section or over the section below this section.
5. The next parting will be about 1" higher at the center and will go to the end of the nape hair line closest to the ear. Let the bottom of this section fall out for a stronger line at the bottom.
6. Comb this hair straight back so that the hairs are parallel to the floor. Lower them 45 degrees from this position. The hairs in the section are still all parallel to each other. This hair is cut to follow the guide line established in the first section. To get the guide in the right place, comb it up to the new section. The new section is then combed down on the guide. This procedure will be done in all the following sections of this cut. To repeat, the previous section is combed up to the new section and the new section is then combed to the guide. This over directs the new section onto the guide from the previous section.
7. Continue to go up head with partings that are wider at the end of the parting than they are at the center. Once the partings are parallel to the original angle of the perimeter of the one length triangular cut, all subsequent parts will remain at the same angle.
8. Each section is pulled straight to you and elevated to 45 degrees in the room as described above. The guide is from the section below. The section below is picked up at the same time the current section is picked up. Follow the head shape. This means to move around the head as you cut.
9. Above the ears continue the part lines to the front hair line. Pick up each current section along with the previous section. Hold the hair at 45 degrees as above and cut it according to the guide in the previous section.
10. Work to the natural part on each side.
Review PM triangular one length with graduation
Natural part and 4 sections.
From center part in nape, make vertical diagonal forward sections. Pull straight back and elevate to 45 degrees. Cut parallel to the part line while holding the hair at 45 degrees.
Move up the center part line in nape with sections getting wider at the perimeter. Pull straight back and cut at 45 degrees of elevation. The previous section is used as the guide. Over direct down to the previous section. Move to the side as the hair from the side is let down.
Continue the same process up the center part line.
Once hair in front of the ear has been let down, that hair is cut following the shape of the head. This means you move to the side to pull this hair out at 45 degrees to cut it.
Sections go from vertical diagonal forward to horizontal diagonal forward until reaching the angle the hair was cut to when the triangular one length was cut. This will be at the occipital bone above the top of the ears. This gives a horse shoe shaped parting to the front hairline. Elevation is not as high on the sides.
Work up to the parting.
2. Section hair again with natural part, center part in nape and a part from apex to ears.
3. At bottom of center nape make a vertical diagonal(aka diagonal forward part) part that starts at center part of nape just below the occipital bone and goes to the middle of the hairline in that section. Make a vertical diagonal part on each side of the center part of nape. Each will point from the center away from each other at the hair line.
4. Pick up hair in the above section and elevate to 45 degrees to the room. (See note below) Cut to follow the parting for the section. Do on both sides of center part using the first section as the guide for the second side.
Added note: to make the bottom line of the hair more solid, let the bottom of the section drop out before cutting the graduation.
The angle the hair is elevated to is 45 degrees down from horizontal. This elevation is held constant while cutting the graduation. To get to this position, first comb the hair straight back so that the hairs in the section are all parallel to the floor. Then lower the ends of the hair 45 degrees. The hairs in the section will still be parallel to each other. They will all be pointing down from the horizontal by 45 degrees. This is the same as pointing up 45 degrees from the horizontal below the hair.
While holding the hair at 45 degrees of elevation it is important that the hair is held over the section it originates from. This means the hair is not over the section above this section or over the section below this section.
5. The next parting will be about 1" higher at the center and will go to the end of the nape hair line closest to the ear. Let the bottom of this section fall out for a stronger line at the bottom.
6. Comb this hair straight back so that the hairs are parallel to the floor. Lower them 45 degrees from this position. The hairs in the section are still all parallel to each other. This hair is cut to follow the guide line established in the first section. To get the guide in the right place, comb it up to the new section. The new section is then combed down on the guide. This procedure will be done in all the following sections of this cut. To repeat, the previous section is combed up to the new section and the new section is then combed to the guide. This over directs the new section onto the guide from the previous section.
7. Continue to go up head with partings that are wider at the end of the parting than they are at the center. Once the partings are parallel to the original angle of the perimeter of the one length triangular cut, all subsequent parts will remain at the same angle.
8. Each section is pulled straight to you and elevated to 45 degrees in the room as described above. The guide is from the section below. The section below is picked up at the same time the current section is picked up. Follow the head shape. This means to move around the head as you cut.
9. Above the ears continue the part lines to the front hair line. Pick up each current section along with the previous section. Hold the hair at 45 degrees as above and cut it according to the guide in the previous section.
10. Work to the natural part on each side.
Review PM triangular one length with graduation
Natural part and 4 sections.
From center part in nape, make vertical diagonal forward sections. Pull straight back and elevate to 45 degrees. Cut parallel to the part line while holding the hair at 45 degrees.
Move up the center part line in nape with sections getting wider at the perimeter. Pull straight back and cut at 45 degrees of elevation. The previous section is used as the guide. Over direct down to the previous section. Move to the side as the hair from the side is let down.
Continue the same process up the center part line.
Once hair in front of the ear has been let down, that hair is cut following the shape of the head. This means you move to the side to pull this hair out at 45 degrees to cut it.
Sections go from vertical diagonal forward to horizontal diagonal forward until reaching the angle the hair was cut to when the triangular one length was cut. This will be at the occipital bone above the top of the ears. This gives a horse shoe shaped parting to the front hairline. Elevation is not as high on the sides.
Work up to the parting.
W: Triangular one length formula
The triangular haircut has a shorter perimeter length in the back and longer in the front. Seen from the side the hair line slants down from back to front. This haircut can be cut with clippers or with scissors.
1. Four sections with natural part connected to center part of nape and with a part from apex to top of ears.
2. Determine angle perimeter will take by holding comb up beside the head. For example from the occipital bone to the mouth or the chin. See bottom figure above. This is a very important part of the consultation before any cutting is done. Most clients have a very specific idea of the front length and the back length they want. Some will hold the hair at the length below they chin they want. Most will also know the exact angle they want the hair in going from front to back. More conservative clients generally want less steep angles compared to those that want a dramatic cut. Once you have the length in front and the angle of the cut hold your comb under the jaw or chin and place the comb on the desired angle. Move the comb to the back side of the head so you can see how the section parts should be started in the nape. Make a part along this line in the nape area. If this is low in the nape, it may be okay to use this for the first section in the nape. If it is too high up in the nape then take a second part in the nape closer to the hairline. See the next step.
1. Four sections with natural part connected to center part of nape and with a part from apex to top of ears.
2. Determine angle perimeter will take by holding comb up beside the head. For example from the occipital bone to the mouth or the chin. See bottom figure above. This is a very important part of the consultation before any cutting is done. Most clients have a very specific idea of the front length and the back length they want. Some will hold the hair at the length below they chin they want. Most will also know the exact angle they want the hair in going from front to back. More conservative clients generally want less steep angles compared to those that want a dramatic cut. Once you have the length in front and the angle of the cut hold your comb under the jaw or chin and place the comb on the desired angle. Move the comb to the back side of the head so you can see how the section parts should be started in the nape. Make a part along this line in the nape area. If this is low in the nape, it may be okay to use this for the first section in the nape. If it is too high up in the nape then take a second part in the nape closer to the hairline. See the next step.
This is the key to this haircut: make the part parallel to the line of the angle the client wants. Be sure to cut parallel to the part line. The comb holding the section to be cut should always be pointing to the desired length at the front of the face.
3. At hairline in nape, make horizontal diagonal forward parts on each side of the center part of nape. Parts should be about .5" from hairline. These parts are parallel to the angle determined in step 2. above. See top figure above.
4. Comb the hair straight down in the back and cut at the desired length parallel to the part.
5. Work way up to top of ear taking .5 " sections with parts parallel to the initial part and combing to guide.
6. Above the ears, the parts will be continued to the front hairline using the same angle as all the other parts. When cutting sides, compensate for ear protrusion: tap hair above ears with shears before cutting perimeter or if you are using clippers, hold the clippers so they are pointing away from the client and use the little finger of the hand holding the clippers to tap the hair above the ear.
7. Work up to natural part from each side.
Memorize this formula. It will be used for triangular cuts with graduation and with layers.
3. At hairline in nape, make horizontal diagonal forward parts on each side of the center part of nape. Parts should be about .5" from hairline. These parts are parallel to the angle determined in step 2. above. See top figure above.
4. Comb the hair straight down in the back and cut at the desired length parallel to the part.
5. Work way up to top of ear taking .5 " sections with parts parallel to the initial part and combing to guide.
6. Above the ears, the parts will be continued to the front hairline using the same angle as all the other parts. When cutting sides, compensate for ear protrusion: tap hair above ears with shears before cutting perimeter or if you are using clippers, hold the clippers so they are pointing away from the client and use the little finger of the hand holding the clippers to tap the hair above the ear.
7. Work up to natural part from each side.
Memorize this formula. It will be used for triangular cuts with graduation and with layers.
Review PM one length
Get angle from anatomy.
Part along line parallel to angle and cut parallel to part.
Hold hair in wide teeth of comb.
Above ear, go to front hairline on each side to make a horse shoe shaped parting (diagonal forward shaped).
Work up to natural part on both sides.
Use light colored cloth under hair to see line and guide for dark hair. Can lay a white paper towel over a dark cutting cape.
Sunday, February 14, 2010
M: Cutting a fade
Fades are not just done on African American clients
In the last couple of weeks I have had to cut a number of fades. The most surprising thing about this to me was how many were cut on Caucasians. African Americans get more than half of the fades I cut but Caucasians were about 20%. The Caucasians called them "high and tight" or a "Marine haircut. " African Americans called them skin fades, temp fades (below the temple or about an inch above the ear), or just fades.
Video on fading
I use the Ivan Zoot method of cutting a fade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r040HaxXkY&feature=related
If you have not seen this you might want to look at this and all the other Ivan Zoot videos. You can search You Tube for Ivan Zoot or for Clipper Guy. He has very useful information for cutting hair and he presents the material very clearly.
Back to fading.
Clippers held sideways and pointed back
His method is to use the clippers on the side of the head going side ways. This means the teeth of the clipper are vertical between the ceiling and the floor. The openings in the blade are pointed back. He starts at the front of the head and pushes the clipper from the front hairline to the back of the head.
Get a clear mental picture of where the fade will be
First you pick where you want the fade to be. This is done in consultation and every person has a specific preference of how high or low the bald area of the fade should be. The fade line is the area where the shortest hair begins.
Once you know where the fade line is going to start you want to have a pretty clear idea of where it will go. Ivan Zoot in this example goes from the widest part of the parietal ridge and gently slopes down as it comes toward the occipital bone in the back. From there it slopes up again to reach a stopping point that is the same height as the starting point on the opposite side of the head. In my experience, I have done better cutting the fade line on the right side of the head to the occipital bone or above and then starting on the left side in the front and going back to meet the first line. This lets me check that both sides of the fade line are at the same height.
I have cut fades with this downward slope toward the occipital bone and with the fade line essentially all at the same level with no downward sloping. With the fade line staying at the widest part of the head and therefore sloping down to the occipital bone, some weight is added uniformly above the widest part of the head to make the head shape more uniform creating a more ideal head shape.
In more recent fades or Marine cuts, I have made the fade line more horizontal with the floor. To me the overall shape is improved. Your mileage may vary.
In the last couple of weeks I have had to cut a number of fades. The most surprising thing about this to me was how many were cut on Caucasians. African Americans get more than half of the fades I cut but Caucasians were about 20%. The Caucasians called them "high and tight" or a "Marine haircut. " African Americans called them skin fades, temp fades (below the temple or about an inch above the ear), or just fades.
Video on fading
I use the Ivan Zoot method of cutting a fade: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7r040HaxXkY&feature=related
If you have not seen this you might want to look at this and all the other Ivan Zoot videos. You can search You Tube for Ivan Zoot or for Clipper Guy. He has very useful information for cutting hair and he presents the material very clearly.
Back to fading.
Clippers held sideways and pointed back
His method is to use the clippers on the side of the head going side ways. This means the teeth of the clipper are vertical between the ceiling and the floor. The openings in the blade are pointed back. He starts at the front of the head and pushes the clipper from the front hairline to the back of the head.
Get a clear mental picture of where the fade will be
First you pick where you want the fade to be. This is done in consultation and every person has a specific preference of how high or low the bald area of the fade should be. The fade line is the area where the shortest hair begins.
Once you know where the fade line is going to start you want to have a pretty clear idea of where it will go. Ivan Zoot in this example goes from the widest part of the parietal ridge and gently slopes down as it comes toward the occipital bone in the back. From there it slopes up again to reach a stopping point that is the same height as the starting point on the opposite side of the head. In my experience, I have done better cutting the fade line on the right side of the head to the occipital bone or above and then starting on the left side in the front and going back to meet the first line. This lets me check that both sides of the fade line are at the same height.
I have cut fades with this downward slope toward the occipital bone and with the fade line essentially all at the same level with no downward sloping. With the fade line staying at the widest part of the head and therefore sloping down to the occipital bone, some weight is added uniformly above the widest part of the head to make the head shape more uniform creating a more ideal head shape.
In more recent fades or Marine cuts, I have made the fade line more horizontal with the floor. To me the overall shape is improved. Your mileage may vary.
How to place the blade on the scalp
To begin cutting place the clipper blade at the front hairline with the bottom of the blade pressed gently into the skin. For me this means that only the bottom 4 teeth of the blade are cutting.
This is the place the shortest hair will be cut thus creating the fade line. By pressing on the bottom of the clipper blade the top of the blade will be made to tilt away from the head slightly. This will give a vertical cut in the hair above the fade line. If the top of the blade is tipped further away from the head a slightly graduated line will be cut above the fade line. This is not appealing and will give you more problems with blending the fade line. It is important to use only the bottom of the blade to cut the fade line. As you cut, go slowly enough to see that the line is straight. Also check that you do not let the top of the blade waver and cut an irregular shape above the fade line.
Look at inconsistencies in the cut line
In my experience it takes some practice to get the line of the fade to be smooth and not bumpy. In the cuts I have made, I frequently have to blend out the bumps in the fade line. Bumps in the fade line can be from inconsistent pressure on the blade of the clipper or by waving the top of the clipper blade in and out.
Blending seems to take care of most problems here. Be careful here so that the fade line does not creep up the side of the head.
Blades used for cutting and blending
For cutting the initial fade line I use the 00000 or the 50 blade. These both cut at .2 mm. It is the closest cutting blade I have. (The 50 blade is the Andis animal designation for a blade that cuts at .2 mm and the 00000 is the human designation for the same length. Recently I dropped the clipper with the 00000 blade and broke a corner tooth off. My local supplier only had a 50 so I have used this for the last month without any problem. )
Buy time to plan for adjustments
My next step is to cut all the hair off the head below the fade line. This is a relatively easy thing to do. I use vertical strokes cutting into the grain of the hair. I stop before reaching the original fade line. This is a delaying action in which I can think about whether or not I like the looks of the fade line and how much adjusting I have to do.
In making adjustments to the fade line I switch to the 0A blade which cuts a length of 1.2 mm a full millimeter longer that the shortest area of the fade line. I use the clipper in vertical strokes and make light brushing strokes to carefully blend without taking off a lot of hair. It is very useful to put the heel of the clipper blade on the scalp in the balded area for this work. Resting the heel on the scalp gives good stability and makes the blending more uniform. If a line persists and/or the bumps have not been blended, I will brush the area again with the 0A blade with a little more pressure. I have had good results with this method. I cannot think of any reason that a number of different blades could not be used for this blending. At times the 0A does not smooth the blend enough so I will use a 000 blade.
In blending the fade line, only a few millimeters of hair are cut in the vertical direction. Be careful not to go to high and change the fade line.
In the video, Ivan Zoot uses a guard on his clipper to do the blending and he also uses a vertical stroke. I could not tell from the video which guard number he was using.
Clarify decisions about cutting top hair
Once the client can see the fade line and the cleaned out area, he will have a clearer idea of what to do with the hair on top of his head. This has been talked about before the haircut so we know what he thought to start and he now has a chance to modify the original choices.
There are lots of ways to finish the top of the head depending on client preferences.
Example
As an example I have one Caucasian client who likes the fade because it removes a lot of his gray hair in the low temple area. He then wants to cut his hair on top with some over direction back in the recession area to give him more coverage there. With this client the connection from the side to the top is made with side to side sections on top of the head pulled to a vertical line parallel with the wall and cut from the length above the fade line straight up. It gives him a squared off look he likes.
Another Example
A client who wants to have a high fade line and short hair on top. This client wants to have the fade line so it is at the level of the middle part of the recession area. He then prefers the top to be cut in 1/2 to 3/4" range on top. This can usually be one with one blade to get the length he wants. The connection from this length to the fade line is then cut using shorter blades (or guards) to smooth from the fade line in vertical sections. As this blending takes place the hair just above the fade line is shortened. When the shape in the connection is right a final buffing of the fade line is done in very short vertical brushings with an 0A or 000. It is important to keep these strokes very short so the faded area does not creep up the side of the head.
It is important to keep the blending of the fade line very short in vertical length. If the initial fade line is blended with a long vertical stroke instead of a short one, the faded area will creep up the head. Using a short stroke to blend up is used to blend only a small distance up from the balded area. A different blade or guard can then be used to blend the newly blended area up a bit higher.
The other way to cut a fade involves cutting a line around the head at the top of the area to be balded. The hair below this line is completely removed and the line is then blended as in the above example with short blending strokes. This may be an easier way to begin cutting fades because the line is more clearly defined early on. The method described above may be more suited for those with some clipper skills already in place. Try these for what suits you best.
Saturday, February 13, 2010
Finding heads to cut at homeless shelters
Finding people who will let you cut their hair can take some work. Friends and family are where I started because they understood my level of inexperience.
At hair cutting course the teacher said he will talk to anyone about getting a free haircut to recruit for demonstrations. He then asked"Who doesn't need a free haircut?" To me this implied that there should be an endless supply of people.
I did look at homeless shelters and found some acceptance. I now go to two different men's shelters regularly once a week. There is another family shelter that calls from time to time.
In the shelters 100 % of the people are men. The ones requesting a haircut are 80% African American. This is a niche I had only limited experience with in cosmetology school. The other 20% are a mixture are Hispanic, Oriental, and Caucasian.
African American Haircuts
For the African American population a great deal of the work entails the use of clippers with some detailing with shear over comb techniques. A large number of the men request a balding haircut. For these I use a 00000 or a 50 replaceable clipper blade. These blades cut to .2 mm in length.
The work is frequently done pretty quickly for the first pass. This is followed by a dusting off of the head and going back to any areas of incomplete cutting. The men receiving these haircuts are universally thankful for the cut especially with such low cutting blades.
The next most frequently requested cuts are fades and general shaping of grow outs. I am going to write another note on fades later. For general shaping I use a number 000, A0, or number 1 blade either freehand or over comb. The aim is to give symmetry to the hair cut and to trim straggler hairs that distort the pattern.
Lines
For African American males who have hair on their heads after the haircut, lines are a commonly requested refinement.
I cut lines by using the T Outliner trimmer. People requesting lines frequently give me very specific instructions about where the lines are to be placed. Learning about lines has been an ongoing and rewarding process for me. When they are done well the client is very pleased.
Lines are cut along the hairline. The blade of the trimmer is just barely touched to the hairline. Special care is taken to take the minimal amount of hair while still leaving a line. The line should follow the hairline unless directed otherwise. For example many men will tell me not to go too deep into the recession area.
After cutting the initial line, I hand the client a mirror and get their appraisal. Frequent adjustments require going deeper into the hair line and cutting off bumps in the lines.
Lines extend down both sides of the sideburns and around the sides and back of the head. The client usually has some ideas about where these lines should be and whether the lines should be square or round in the back. A mirror for final client appraisal is useful.
Facial Hair
A large number of African American males have facial hair that they want cut and shaped. For this I also use the trimmer to put lines above and under moustaches and around goatees. Moustaches and goatees frequently need to be thinned to look neat. Some are particularly pleased at picking out some of the prominent gray hairs individually with shears.
For larger areas of the face, I go back to the clipper and use the 00000 blade to take off beards and hair under the chin. For clients with razor bumps this has to be done with some care so the bumps are not riped by the blade edge. Using the 00000 blade is also useful for putting in lines around the head and over and under mustaches and beards.
Ears, Nose and Eyebrow hair
Finally an inspection of ear hairs and nose hairs and eyebrow hairs is done and they are trimmed. Trimming nose and ear hairs is done with a short pair of shears with rounded ends specially made for these tasks. I got mine at Cosmo Prof for about $12. These two services are universally appreciated. Shears are washed and disinfected after each use.
Eyebrows are not always requested. There seems to be some fear they will be disfigured. When they are requested I cut them with trimmer over comb or shear over comb. I first comb the hairs up and trim and then comb them down and trim again. Occasionally some wild hairs will escape this so I inspect the eyebrows from the side to try and get these in a more favorable light for cutting.
Non African American Haircuts
For the other non African American haircuts I typically try to follow one of the formats described in American Crew Menswork. This group of lessons does not address African American haircutting.
In trying to follow the Menswork patterns my results rarely are as consistent as the course demos, but their shear over comb and clipper over comb techniques help me make them passable.
Recently I have started to cut the start of these haircuts using clipper over comb in all phases of the haircuts. It speeds the cuts up a lot.
Concerns about health
When I have mentioned to people that I am cutting in homeless shelters they consistently raise a few concerns about cleanliness and infections. When men come into these shelters they are fed and cleaned up right at the start. By the time I see them they have been in the shelter for a while and are all well bathed and groomed and follow rules in the shelters about chores and education. They have also had medical exams and receive treatment as needed. I am cautious with them as with other clients about blood spills.
It is suprising to me how ordinary the people in the shelters are. They have generally all been working and most have some job skills. Many have alcohol and drug issues. Many are receiving training in job skills.
So far I have not had any problems with any of them. They all show lots of appreciation for the haircuts.
Like all other work, it is good to show up regularly and on time. Clients increase as they see what you can do and what you are willing to do.
At hair cutting course the teacher said he will talk to anyone about getting a free haircut to recruit for demonstrations. He then asked"Who doesn't need a free haircut?" To me this implied that there should be an endless supply of people.
I did look at homeless shelters and found some acceptance. I now go to two different men's shelters regularly once a week. There is another family shelter that calls from time to time.
In the shelters 100 % of the people are men. The ones requesting a haircut are 80% African American. This is a niche I had only limited experience with in cosmetology school. The other 20% are a mixture are Hispanic, Oriental, and Caucasian.
African American Haircuts
For the African American population a great deal of the work entails the use of clippers with some detailing with shear over comb techniques. A large number of the men request a balding haircut. For these I use a 00000 or a 50 replaceable clipper blade. These blades cut to .2 mm in length.
The work is frequently done pretty quickly for the first pass. This is followed by a dusting off of the head and going back to any areas of incomplete cutting. The men receiving these haircuts are universally thankful for the cut especially with such low cutting blades.
The next most frequently requested cuts are fades and general shaping of grow outs. I am going to write another note on fades later. For general shaping I use a number 000, A0, or number 1 blade either freehand or over comb. The aim is to give symmetry to the hair cut and to trim straggler hairs that distort the pattern.
Lines
For African American males who have hair on their heads after the haircut, lines are a commonly requested refinement.
I cut lines by using the T Outliner trimmer. People requesting lines frequently give me very specific instructions about where the lines are to be placed. Learning about lines has been an ongoing and rewarding process for me. When they are done well the client is very pleased.
Lines are cut along the hairline. The blade of the trimmer is just barely touched to the hairline. Special care is taken to take the minimal amount of hair while still leaving a line. The line should follow the hairline unless directed otherwise. For example many men will tell me not to go too deep into the recession area.
After cutting the initial line, I hand the client a mirror and get their appraisal. Frequent adjustments require going deeper into the hair line and cutting off bumps in the lines.
Lines extend down both sides of the sideburns and around the sides and back of the head. The client usually has some ideas about where these lines should be and whether the lines should be square or round in the back. A mirror for final client appraisal is useful.
Facial Hair
A large number of African American males have facial hair that they want cut and shaped. For this I also use the trimmer to put lines above and under moustaches and around goatees. Moustaches and goatees frequently need to be thinned to look neat. Some are particularly pleased at picking out some of the prominent gray hairs individually with shears.
For larger areas of the face, I go back to the clipper and use the 00000 blade to take off beards and hair under the chin. For clients with razor bumps this has to be done with some care so the bumps are not riped by the blade edge. Using the 00000 blade is also useful for putting in lines around the head and over and under mustaches and beards.
Ears, Nose and Eyebrow hair
Finally an inspection of ear hairs and nose hairs and eyebrow hairs is done and they are trimmed. Trimming nose and ear hairs is done with a short pair of shears with rounded ends specially made for these tasks. I got mine at Cosmo Prof for about $12. These two services are universally appreciated. Shears are washed and disinfected after each use.
Eyebrows are not always requested. There seems to be some fear they will be disfigured. When they are requested I cut them with trimmer over comb or shear over comb. I first comb the hairs up and trim and then comb them down and trim again. Occasionally some wild hairs will escape this so I inspect the eyebrows from the side to try and get these in a more favorable light for cutting.
Non African American Haircuts
For the other non African American haircuts I typically try to follow one of the formats described in American Crew Menswork. This group of lessons does not address African American haircutting.
In trying to follow the Menswork patterns my results rarely are as consistent as the course demos, but their shear over comb and clipper over comb techniques help me make them passable.
Recently I have started to cut the start of these haircuts using clipper over comb in all phases of the haircuts. It speeds the cuts up a lot.
Concerns about health
When I have mentioned to people that I am cutting in homeless shelters they consistently raise a few concerns about cleanliness and infections. When men come into these shelters they are fed and cleaned up right at the start. By the time I see them they have been in the shelter for a while and are all well bathed and groomed and follow rules in the shelters about chores and education. They have also had medical exams and receive treatment as needed. I am cautious with them as with other clients about blood spills.
It is suprising to me how ordinary the people in the shelters are. They have generally all been working and most have some job skills. Many have alcohol and drug issues. Many are receiving training in job skills.
So far I have not had any problems with any of them. They all show lots of appreciation for the haircuts.
Like all other work, it is good to show up regularly and on time. Clients increase as they see what you can do and what you are willing to do.
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