Wednesday, February 24, 2010

W: One length with graduation formula

1. Cut one length haircut per previous post. Four sections either with natural part or central part on top and a part from apex to behind ears.

2 Part horizontally at occipital bone.

Cut vertical graduation in the back.

3. Subsection back large sections by taking vertical sections that are wider at the bottom than at the top. Part will go from center part to slightly wider toward the perimeter. Parts will angle away from center on each side of center. This makes them vertical diagonal sections.

4. Direct the subsections straight back. When you get to the corner behind the mastoid this will cause a lot of over direction back and this will leave hair at this corner.
Each subsection in the larger panel is slightly over directed to the previous section for a guide.
Added note: If the sections are not directed straight back but instead directed straight out from the head surface, the final form of the haircut will be more rounded and there will be less hair at the corner behind the ear.

Cut with graduation about 45 degrees. Do both sides in the larger sections.

Another Added Note: 12/25/10
In reviewing this haircut, two types of graduation were seen. The first is in the back area from the nape hair line to the apex, the sections are elevated to 90 degrees which means they are all parallel to the floor. These are then cut with a finger angle/shear angle of 45 degrees to the grain of the hair.
The second type of elevation is that used on the sides from the mastoid process to the front hair line. On the sides, the hair is elevated to 45 degrees. This 45 degrees is measured from the hair in natural fall which is zero degrees. In zero degrees the hair is pointing down to the floor, so on the sides the hair is elevated up 45 degrees before cutting. Once the section is elevated, it is then cut with a finger angle of 90 degrees. On the sides, horizontal sections are used. The hair is elevated to 45 degrees and cut straight across the hair grain which is being held at an elevation of 45 degrees.
In the first type of elevation, the line of graduation is higher than in the second type of elevation.
This means the line of graduation is lower and shorter on the sides than in the back.
Another note on these ideas is in the note "Graduation Parameters" published in this blog on 11/26/10.

Added note: In cutting this graduation, a key to keeping it uniform is to keep the elevation the same in all sections. Holding each section at 45 degrees means keeping it at 45 degrees down from horizontal. If you hold the section parallel to the floor it is at 90 degrees. Lower it to from parallel to the floor to 45 degrees from the horizontal.

Holding the fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will put the line of graduation near the bottom of the section. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees to the hair, moves the line of graduation higher up the section from the hairline.

An Added Note: Let the bottom part of the diagonal vertical section fall out before cutting the section. This is shown in the Sassoon ab cut in their ABC cutting course. This leaves the bottom of the section well defined.

5. Next large section is taken up to the crown. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.

6. Next large section from crown to apex. Pull subsections as above in 4. Cut both sides.

Cut horizontal graduation on sides.

7. Move to side of head. Pull guide from behind ear and take horizontal section in front and cut to guide. Hold hair at 45 degrees from head. Cannot have graduation where no hair grows so front is shorter than the back.

8. Continue horizontal sections and over direct to previous section and hold at 45 degrees down from horizontal.
Work to part.
Over direction to the previous section is done by pulling the new section out at 45 degrees. Then comb up the section just below the new to the new section. Cut the hair to the guide from the section below.

9. Do same on other side.

10. Cross check horizontally in back and vertically on sides

What I don't know:

A. Why center part or natural part.

B. Why not just take horizontal sections in the back. You can do this.

Review PM Square one length with graduation
In the back, fingers are up and the cut is palm to palm on the left side of client. This hair is cut from the top down.

On the right side, the fingers holding the hair are pointed down and the hair is cut palm to palm.
Hair is cut up in pieces of the diagonal forward sections starting at the top and working to the bottom.

Added note: This haircut could also be cut with 90 degrees of elevation of the section. This would lengthen the length of the straight line seen in the graduation.
If cutting at 90 degrees of elevation, holding the hair with fingers and shears at 45 degrees to the hair will keep the line of graduation close to the hair line. Holding the fingers and shears at 90 degrees will move the line of graduation up from the hair line.

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