Monday, February 15, 2010

W: Triangular Layers formula

1. Cut the one length triangular haircut as seen in a previous post.

2. Resection the hair into four sections with a center part on top through to the nape hairline and with a part connecting the apex with the tops of the ears.

3. Section off two large sections in the back by parting from the occipital bone to the tops of the ears. Areas 1 and 2.

4. Start in the center back and take 1/2" vertical subsections.

5. Direct these subsections straight back and cut flat with the wall.The guide is taken from the nape and has been established by the cutting in 1. above. The hair at the top of the section is pulled away from the head and this allows hair at the bottom of the section to fall out if it does not reach. This has the effect of making the guide about 2 inches below the occipital to top of the ear part. Subsequent subsections are over directed to the previous subsection and cut flat with the wall behind the model.

6. Next part from the crown to the LINE connecting the apex to the ears. This part is parallel to the previous part from the occipital bone to the tops of the ears.
This is the upper boundary of Areas 3 and 5.

7. Now connect this parting to the front hairline following the angle established in 6. This is the same thing as making a horseshoe parting around the head from the crown to the front hairline.
Areas 3 is created in the left back and Area 4 is on left side. Area 5 is right back and Area 6 is on the right side.

8. Beginning in the back center make vertical subsections and pull straight back to the wall behind the model. Guide is below in the section cut in 5. Over direct to the previous subsection as was done with the sections in 5. These are cut in Area 3.

9. From the ear forward all sections will be over directed back to the guide established behind the ear. Work to the front hairline on one side and then on the other.
These are cut in Area 4. Areas 5 and 6 are then cut on the right side.

10. The next section is Area 7 between the line from apex to top of ears and the the parting made in 6. above. It is already divided off by partings in 2. and 6. and only needs to be subsectioned. These subsections are horizontal.

11. Comb these subsections straight back to the wall behind the model and cut to the guide in the crown.

12. The center part in the remaining uncut hair on top of the head should be in place from the original partings in 2.

13. On each side of this top center part take horizontal sections from the center to the side connecting the center part to the side at the horseshoe parting.
Area 8 is on the top left side and Area 9 is on the top right side.

14. Comb these horizontal sections back to the wall behind the model and cut to the guide in the crown area.

15. Work toward the front hairline on each side.
Review PM triangular one length layering
4 sections with Center part
Cut triangular one length first.
First occipital to top of ear on each side.
Take vertical 1/2 " section and pull straight back to wall.
Over direct to previous section.
Second is horizontal diagonal forward from low crown to front hair line. First part here is from crown to division from apex to top of ears. Pull back to back wall and cut to the previous section behind the ear. Body on opposite of where cutting.
Second part here is from line to apex to top of ears to front hairline. Continue to pull straight back and onto previous section. Cut outside the fingers.
Third is from low crown to apex. Pull this straight back and cut to guide in the crown. This section is held parallel to the floor ( horizontal section).
Fourth is in front of the apex on one side of top center parting. Sections are taken from the center parting to the side of the head at the horse shoe shaped parting that had been done from the low crown to the front hairline. The sections are directed straight back to the guide in the crown. Cut a flat line horizontally and 90 degrees from the crown area. ( I don't know what this 90 degrees means here. It looks like the hair is pulled straight back which puts it a good distance behind the head. It does look like the stylist elevates the hair here a few inches before cutting.
Cut the other side of the top the same way.
Cross check with diagonal forward sections with same elevation and over direction. Cross check top with front to back sections.

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