Monday, February 15, 2010

W: Triangular with graduation formula

1. Cut the triangular one length cut as described in the previous post.

2. Section hair again with natural part, center part in nape and a part from apex to ears.

3. At bottom of center nape make a vertical diagonal(aka diagonal forward part) part that starts at center part of nape just below the occipital bone and goes to the middle of the hairline in that section. Make a vertical diagonal part on each side of the center part of nape. Each will point from the center away from each other at the hair line.

4. Pick up hair in the above section and elevate to 45 degrees to the room. (See note below) Cut to follow the parting for the section. Do on both sides of center part using the first section as the guide for the second side.

Added note: to make the bottom line of the hair more solid, let the bottom of the section drop out before cutting the graduation.
The angle the hair is elevated to is 45 degrees down from horizontal. This elevation is held constant while cutting the graduation. To get to this position, first comb the hair straight back so that the hairs in the section are all parallel to the floor. Then lower the ends of the hair 45 degrees. The hairs in the section will still be parallel to each other. They will all be pointing down from the horizontal by 45 degrees. This is the same as pointing up 45 degrees from the horizontal below the hair.

While holding the hair at 45 degrees of elevation it is important that the hair is held over the section it originates from. This means the hair is not over the section above this section or over the section below this section.

5. The next parting will be about 1" higher at the center and will go to the end of the nape hair line closest to the ear. Let the bottom of this section fall out for a stronger line at the bottom.

6. Comb this hair straight back so that the hairs are parallel to the floor. Lower them 45 degrees from this position. The hairs in the section are still all parallel to each other. This hair is cut to follow the guide line established in the first section. To get the guide in the right place, comb it up to the new section. The new section is then combed down on the guide. This procedure will be done in all the following sections of this cut. To repeat, the previous section is combed up to the new section and the new section is then combed to the guide. This over directs the new section onto the guide from the previous section.

7. Continue to go up head with partings that are wider at the end of the parting than they are at the center. Once the partings are parallel to the original angle of the perimeter of the one length triangular cut, all subsequent parts will remain at the same angle.

8. Each section is pulled straight to you and elevated to 45 degrees in the room as described above. The guide is from the section below. The section below is picked up at the same time the current section is picked up. Follow the head shape. This means to move around the head as you cut.

9. Above the ears continue the part lines to the front hair line. Pick up each current section along with the previous section. Hold the hair at 45 degrees as above and cut it according to the guide in the previous section.

10. Work to the natural part on each side.

Review PM triangular one length with graduation
Natural part and 4 sections.
From center part in nape, make vertical diagonal forward sections. Pull straight back and elevate to 45 degrees. Cut parallel to the part line while holding the hair at 45 degrees.
Move up the center part line in nape with sections getting wider at the perimeter. Pull straight back and cut at 45 degrees of elevation. The previous section is used as the guide. Over direct down to the previous section. Move to the side as the hair from the side is let down.
Continue the same process up the center part line.
Once hair in front of the ear has been let down, that hair is cut following the shape of the head. This means you move to the side to pull this hair out at 45 degrees to cut it.
Sections go from vertical diagonal forward to horizontal diagonal forward until reaching the angle the hair was cut to when the triangular one length was cut. This will be at the occipital bone above the top of the ears. This gives a horse shoe shaped parting to the front hairline. Elevation is not as high on the sides.
Work up to the parting.

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