Saw a demonstration using point cutting to reduce a weight line. It was cut into a section where the hair was about 4 to 5 inches long.
I plan to try this on styles for men as a way of blending away weight lines.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Using thinning shears to reduce weight
Saw a video using thinning shears to reduce weight. The stylist emphasized making 3 cuts along the length of the hair to get good reduction in weight.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
M: short, clipper over comb
1. Cut the sides using clipper over comb technique.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
w: One length square with layers.
1. Cut the one length square haircut as described in a previous post.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
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