Monday, February 15, 2010

W: Triangular one length formula

The triangular haircut has a shorter perimeter length in the back and longer in the front. Seen from the side the hair line slants down from back to front. This haircut can be cut with clippers or with scissors.

1. Four sections with natural part connected to center part of nape and with a part from apex to top of ears.

2. Determine angle perimeter will take by holding comb up beside the head. For example from the occipital bone to the mouth or the chin. See bottom figure above. This is a very important part of the consultation before any cutting is done. Most clients have a very specific idea of the front length and the back length they want. Some will hold the hair at the length below they chin they want. Most will also know the exact angle they want the hair in going from front to back. More conservative clients generally want less steep angles compared to those that want a dramatic cut. Once you have the length in front and the angle of the cut hold your comb under the jaw or chin and place the comb on the desired angle. Move the comb to the back side of the head so you can see how the section parts should be started in the nape. Make a part along this line in the nape area. If this is low in the nape, it may be okay to use this for the first section in the nape. If it is too high up in the nape then take a second part in the nape closer to the hairline. See the next step.
This is the key to this haircut: make the part parallel to the line of the angle the client wants. Be sure to cut parallel to the part line. The comb holding the section to be cut should always be pointing to the desired length at the front of the face.

3. At hairline in nape, make horizontal diagonal forward parts on each side of the center part of nape. Parts should be about .5" from hairline. These parts are parallel to the angle determined in step 2. above. See top figure above.

4. Comb the hair straight down in the back and cut at the desired length parallel to the part.

5. Work way up to top of ear taking .5 " sections with parts parallel to the initial part and combing to guide.

6. Above the ears, the parts will be continued to the front hairline using the same angle as all the other parts. When cutting sides, compensate for ear protrusion: tap hair above ears with shears before cutting perimeter or if you are using clippers, hold the clippers so they are pointing away from the client and use the little finger of the hand holding the clippers to tap the hair above the ear.

7. Work up to natural part from each side.

Memorize this formula. It will be used for triangular cuts with graduation and with layers.
Review PM one length
Get angle from anatomy.
Part along line parallel to angle and cut parallel to part.
Hold hair in wide teeth of comb.
Above ear, go to front hairline on each side to make a horse shoe shaped parting (diagonal forward shaped).
Work up to natural part on both sides.
Use light colored cloth under hair to see line and guide for dark hair. Can lay a white paper towel over a dark cutting cape.

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