Thursday, February 25, 2010

W: Round haircut with layers formula

1. Cut round haircut per a previous post.
Added note: when you start with a foundation haircut, as in this case, it means you don't cut into the perimeter when cutting the layers.

2. Resection the hair with a center part and a part from apex to behind ears.

3. Decide on the type of layering.
a. Longer round haircuts may do well with long layers meaning the hair is all directed straight up and cut flat to the ceiling.
b. Shorter haircuts may be better fit with short layers cut at 90 degrees straight up from top of head and then round around the parietal ridge area.
c. Some have suggested that 90 degrees cut to follow the head form (instead of flat with the ceiling and wall ) may give a rounder form.

4. Measure the correct length for the guide by determining where the beginning of the layers and the end of the layers will fall.
Another method is to measure the length of the hair behind the top of the ear. This is measured in the round haircut that is done as a foundation before putting in the layers. This will be a guide to how long the layers on the top of the head and around the parietal ridge should be.
a. Do this by taking a horizontal section at the apex. Elevate this to 90 degrees and place your holding fingers at the estimated cutting line. The piece of this section closest to the apex should be grabbed and slowly lowered to show where the layers will start.
b. Use the same length at the outer most part of the horizontal section (the piece furthest from the apex) and continue the section through the parietal ridge. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The outer part of this, when held at the estimated cutting line, can now be lowered to show where the layers will stop. When you have the right estimated cutting line for your design, you can cut the layers as decided.

Review PM Round haircut with layers.
1. Cut a round haircut per a previous note.
2. Divide hair into four sections with a center top part through the nape and a part from the apex to the ears.
3. Measure length of the layers by measuring the length of the hair behind the ears.
4. Take center part from apex to front hairline and create a section in the center top from apex to front hairline.
5. Elevate the section 90 degrees following the round of the head. Measure the length at the apex and cut the hair following the round of the head to the front hairline.
6. Pivot sections around the apex and over direct the section to the previous section for the guide. Follow the round of the head to do the cutting. Cut the hair on side opposite of where you are standing.
7. Continue taking sections in this manner until reaching the part from the apex to the ear. Cut to the perimeter but not into the perimeter.
8. Return to center top and do the other side the same way.
9. Go to the part behind the ear. Start taking pivoting sections continuing the pattern from the front. Elevate to 90 degrees from the head form. The length at the perimeter will drop. Cut from the apex toward the perimeter. Over direct to the previous section. This is a forward over direction.
10. Continue sections a section beyond the center part in the nape.
11. Then go to the other back section at the part line from the apex to the ear.

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