Friday, April 23, 2010

M: Spikey, point cut side, notches and point cut top

This gives practice in putting texture on the sides and top. It is done with shears.
This follows the usual routine of working the sides and back first, then connecting these to the top, and finally putting texture in the top.

Horse shoe shaped parting above the parietal ridge a little below the deepest part of recession area.

Cut sides and back

Pull vertical sections to 90 degrees and cut notches with shears pointing down and toward the scalp. The length of the hair is about 2 inches and the notches are cut to about 1 inch from the scalp. The short hair is below the long hair in the notch and should push the long hair up giving the hair lift off the scalp. The point cutting of the notches is at 45 degrees down. Two or three notches are cut in the held portion of a section.
In this demonstration, the length of the hair on the side is close to the desired length before the notches are started.
The notches are cut around the first side, through the back and around the other side.

Connect sides and back to the top
Within the horse shoe shaped section take back to front sections starting on the side. Comb these to the side and cut with notches of variable depth and direction. In the demonstration the notches are spaced about two in the part of the section held in the non cutting hand. Don't cut notches over notches in the section right below. The idea is to give a lot of points of hair from each separate section.
Continue to the top middle and do the other side. Vary the direction of the notches for more texture.
The crown is cut the same way with notches of varying directions.

Texture in the top: notches, point cutting, slide cutting.
Re establish the horse shoe shaped parting.
Take front to back partings starting at the sides as done above. This time the hair is combed straight up. It is then cut with deep notches with the shears pointing from high in the back to low in the front. This is to direct the hair back. The angle is about 45 degrees for these notches.
This same section is then shallow cut with more vertical notches at about 15 degrees to trim excessive length from the ends of the section. These points are cut going to the front and to the back in an alternate pattern. The demonstration leaves the hair about 3 inches long. The ends of the hair should not be curved after the final point cutting. Ithink this means the hair is the right length for a design with spikes.

Following this, make side to side sections in the horse shoe shaped section starting at the back of the section. Stand in front of the client and slide cut the section with the shears pointing up and back. The hair is held with the fingers on the scalp and the points of the shear go in above the fingers and rotate up as they go through the section.

Point cut the perimeter. Even out the shape as needed. Make perimeter look solid from a distance. See detail up close.

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