Sunday, April 25, 2010

W: shears, one length, graduation, layers

Examine hairline, growth patterns, head shape.

Manually form the design to see right length.

Find natural part. Connect to center nape with part with a diagonal part. Comb hair to natural fall.

Section and cut back and sides one length

Above nape hair line, take horizontal part to behind ear. Head is tipped forward.

Cut to 2 inches above shoulder parallel to part line.

Take next section at near top of ear which is parallel to first. Cut with first section as guide.

Continue with sections up to the crown with parallel sections. Tip head forward a little less with each section. The hair is combed down in subsequent sections and cut on the skin. This has the effect of following the curvature of the neck a little. This is different than pulling everything back to an even line across the back of the neck.

In this demo the hair is wavy. This may be the reason it is being held with some tension against the skin rather than held with less tension in the comb.

As the sections are taken up the back, no hair is taken on the sides while reaching the crown area. This means there is a part some place to the ear separating the front of the head from the back. It looks like this part starts at the upper crown and comes down the side just behind the ear. It is not clear to me why this was not put in at the beginning of the haircut. Maybe this stylist knows how to cut hair.

Once the upper crown is reached, the side is connected to the back with a horizontal side part starting at the part from crown to ear and running toward the eyebrow. This hair is combed down and connected to the length behind the ear. The hair is held in the fingers and the head is tilted away from the cutting area.

Take more sections up the side until reaching the natural part.

Go to the back and do the other side of the back to the crown and then the other side.

Check balance.


Change parting to a center part top and nape.

In the lower nape take a diagonal forward part starting about mid ear and going toward the bottom of the ear. Elevate this section back and hold it elevated at about 45 degrees. The fingers holding this section should be on the hair parallel to the part line. Cut along the fingers once the finger tips have reached the tips of the section. Because the fingers are slanted parallel to the part line, length will be removed from the ends of the section near the center of the nape.

Sections are taken up the nape that are progressively more parallel than the first part line. The section is again elevated to 45 degrees and cut to the guide in the previous section. The hair is over directed back for cutting.

When the section is higher than the ear, the part line is continued to the front hair line. The section is pulled back to the guide in the back all along this part line. It is elevated and cut to the guide in the previous section. This guide is in the back and looks to be flat with the wall behind the client in the back of the head. On the sides it looks like the guide has moved around the head shape toward the front of the head. ???

The sections working forward continue to be diagonally forward.


It looks like the graduation is continued for a few sections after crossing over the height of the ear and cutting graduation in front of the ear. After this the diagonal forward sections are continued but they are now elevated out from the head shape and cut to the guide of the previously graduated hair beneath.

The sections are more horizontal as the sections get to the top of the head. The sections are worked up to the natural part line on each side.


Make a section that follows the hair line around the front about 1 inch in. Comb the hair forward and measure desired length. Elevate to cut to give the ends some graduation. The line is angled longer toward the side. Cutting line follows the parting around the hair line. Take more sections parallel to the first until the hair does not reach any more. Work the same method on both sides of the natural part.


Product and blow dry.

1 comment:

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