Saturday, April 24, 2010

W: shear, one length, layers.

Assess hairline, growth patterns, head shape.

Determine length and model the design by holding the hair to the shape.

Find the natural part. Comb hair to natural fall.

Make center nape part and connect this to the natural part with a diagonal part.

Cut back
This part of the haircut is very much like W: shears, one length, bangs. The first difference is that the horizontal sections in the nape are cut with one finger elevation. This means the hair is held in the first two fingers of the non cutting hand and the second finger is on the skin. Head is tipped forward.
Continue taking parallel sections up the nape to the top of the ears on each side.
Adjust head tilt to be less with each section up the nape area.

Cut sides
Above the ear take a horse shoe shaped parting that goes from the center back to the front hairlines. This part line is about the level of the eyebrows. Follow the hair around the head and cut it to the length developed in the nape area. Compensate for the ear sticking out by tapping above the ear before cutting. See the post W: shears, one length, bangs. Tip head away from where the cutting is taking place.

Do other side same way.

Continue taking horse shoe shaped sections up to the original parting and cut the same way with the head tilted away from the cutting action. Compensate for ears in those areas. Hair behind the ear and in front of the ear is cut to natural fall with one finger elevation.
When the natural parting is reached on one side, the rest of the hair is combed to the other side.

Cutting the layers
In the back of the head take a vertical section from the apex to the back hair line. The hair is combed straight out from the head shape. The hair below the occipital bone is allowed to fall away. The remaining hair is cut flat with the wall behind the head. The head appears to be tipped slightly forward at this cutting.

Now take pivoting sections through the crown area until reaching the ear. The sections are over directed back to develop length to the front and side. Cut to the guide in the previous section. These vertical sections were cut from the bottom up in the demonstration. Each part of the section was pulled out from the head shape, so each part was elevated a bit more as parts of the section progressed up the curve of the head. This made the lengths on the top of the section longer than at the bottom of the section. The top had been elevated and then had to reach further for the flat layering guide.
Once the ear is reached on each side, the sections become parallel and are combed straight back. The work continues to the front hair line.

Do the same on the other side.

Smooth out the top
Take side to side partings across the top. Comb back and cut to the guides on the sides. There will be two parts of the side to side section with one on each side of the natural parting. Work to the front on both sides of the natural parting.

Cut the bangs
Take a section that follows the hair line in the front. Comb this forward. Start on the wide side of the natural part. They cut this section short in the middle and longer toward the side away from the natural part. The slanting line is cut to the outside of the eye.
Take more parallel sections and cut to the guide. Take sections until the hair no longer reaches.
Do the same thing on the other side of the natural part.
Go to the other side and work up the thin side of the natural part.

Use product and blow dry in the sections is was cut.

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