Friday, April 23, 2010

M: med length, razor, shear, slide cutting and point cutting

Use the razor with a guard in this haircut.
Usual pattern of cutting sides and back, connecting to top, putting texture on the top. Most of the work is done with shears after an initial definition of the sides with a razor.

Horse shoe shaped parting started just above the parietal ridge where the hair line just starts to go vertical.

Cut sides and back with razor and then shear over comb
Take vertical sections on the side and hold at 90 degrees from side of head. Hold with fingers down and cut the section from bottom to top with the razor. The razor is very close to parallel to the strands of hair and looks to be tilted about 15 degrees with blade edge higher than the blade spine. The travel of the cut is short and looks to be about 1/2 inch. The length after cutting is long enough to reach the middle of the parietal ridge from the top of the section . The demonstration says this is about 2.5 inches. Guide is from the previous section. The section is cut flat to the wall or square layering.
The stylist demonstrates cutting the vertical section in short, repetitive strokes taking about 4 strokes to get through an inch of the section. Cutting up this way should give some lift to the hair.
The side, back, and other side are done with the same method.

Following the razor cutting, recut the entire sides and back using shear over comb to point cut the ends of the hair and to make them less tattered than the razor cut. The direction of the points is varied and only the ends of the hair are cut. The comb is brought up from the bottom horizontally and points are cut al along the comb before it is lifted to the next horizontal part of the section.

Connecting sides and back to top with point cutting
Re establish the horse shoe shaped parting.
Make a front to back part down the middle of this section.
Now make center to side partings and pick up the section along with some of the hair outside the horse shoe shaped parting. Hold the section with the fingers nearly vertical to the floor and point cut to the guide using varying direction to the points/notches. At the recession area pull all of the hair in front back behind the recession.
In the back go around the crown with the same method and guide. Continue to the other side

Top point cutting to fall from part and then slide cutting to the rear
Re establish the horse shoe shaped section and take note of the place you want the part in the hair. The demonstration suggests assuming the part is over the eye area.
Take side to side sections across the back of the horse shoe shaped section. Each section will have a piece on either side of the part line. Comb the hair straight up and point cut the hair so it is targeted to fall from the part. This will have the points cut with the shears pointing down toward the part leaving the short hair closer to the part line. On the other side of the part line, target the hair away from part line in the opposite direction. Continue to the front hair line on both sides of the part line.
Now go back to the same side to side sections and slide cut to the back. Stand in front of the client and hold the section with the fingers on the scalp. Push the points of the shears into the hair above the fingers and rotate the points up as the shears go through the section. These slide cuts are fairly close together and they remove excessive length from the ends. Work to the front hair line.

In the connection area between the sides and back with the top, the sections are redone as they had been in point cutting the connection. This time the sections are slide cut up to give lift to the hair.

1 comment:

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