Evaluate hair line all around the perimeter. Visualize final lengths and hold hair in the design.
Find natural part. Can isolate crown in triangular area if problems there.
Section and cut backs and sides
Natural part connected to center part through nape.
Horizontal sections at back hairline on both sides of center.
Tip head forward.
Comb hair in direction of natural growth before cutting.
Cut line parallel to the part line. This line seems to wrap around neck shape to behind the ear. In this demo the fingers of the left hand hold the hair to the skin for cutting.
Make more horizontal sections up the nape on both sides of central part. Work to occipital bone initially and then to the crown. As you get higher up the back tilt the head less forward. ( I believe this is to give the hair a slightly shorter length for the lower sections. It should make it easier to have the hair curl under at the end.)
Parts seem to become more diagonally forward as higher sections are taken. By the low crown the part line goes to the upper part of the ear. One section up, the part line is still behind the ear but close to the top. It has started at the mid crown.
The shears are held so the blades cut perpendicular to the hair strand and do not leave any slant at the bottom of the hair. They go back and trim the line very precisely.
Less tension is used to hold the hair as the sections progress up the back. At the crown the comb is used.
Cut the sides
Once sections reach the part line from the mid crown to the ears, begin to cut the sides. A horizontal part is taken from the mid crown to ear part line to the front hairline. This is roughly at the level of the eyebrow. The head is tipped away from side that is being cut. The hair is combed into natural fall and separated around the ear with hair behind the ear being combed down behind the ear. Hair that naturally falls over the ear is held in the comb and is tapped or pressed to make room for the distance the ear sticks out. This is done by holding the hair in the teeth of the comb below the ear. This gives a slight holding pressure to the hair. The shears are closed and the blades are tapped on the hair above the ears. The hair that is being tapped is the same hair that the comb is holding. This tapping lets some length of the hair slip through the comb. The hair in the comb is then cut and the part over the ear is longer because the tapping has pulled it up in the comb. Keep the blades of the shears perpendicular to the hair strand.
Further sections are taken parallel to the first. The progression is up the part line connecting the mid crown to ear. Sections are continued until the natural part line is met. All the sections were held in the comb and the ears were compensated for by tapping the hair above the ear.
Do the same thing on the other side. Tilt the head away from the side being cut.
Cut bangs on a flat line
A side to side section is taken across the front hair line about 1 inch in from the hair line. The hair is combed forward which seems to be its natural fall pattern. A flat line is cut across the front below the eyebrows. The blades of the shears are held parallel to the floor to leave a flat line. The section is cut parallel to the part line for the side to side section.
More side to side sections are taken until the hair no longer reaches the bangs.
The bangs have been continued on a flat line around the face beyond the end of the recession area. The initial section of the bangs is being cut from the center of the face to the clients right side. It looks like it starts at the natural part line.
The same thing is done for the other side of the bangs. The hair is combed to natural fall and is held in the comb for cutting flat. The bangs continue around the face beyond the recession area on both sides. The bangs are cut on the new side until the hair no longer reaches.
Looking at the haircut at this stage, the hair is cut about an inch below the jaw line. It seems to curve under the jawline naturally. I suspect this is because the head was tilted away while the line was being cut making the first sections shorter than the later sections???
Check the line
Hold line against the skin with back of the hand and check line. This should be putting more tension on it. The hair is still wet here.
Blow dry in the same sections as cut. Re check the line.
Natural fall of the hair is important in this cut. It will fall correctly if cut in its natural fall??
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