Thursday, April 22, 2010

M: Shears,Corrugated sides, long top, texture in connection

Horse shoe shaped parting that is diagonally forward on the sides. It starts in the crown and slants forward on each side to the furthest forward point of the front hairline.

Cut sides and back
Beneath the horse shoe shaped parting, take very wide vertical sections. The first went from the front hair line to behind the ear. The hair is pulled to the center point of the vertical section and cut flat to the wall. This gives hair in the vertical section that is longer on either end of the section and shortest in the middle. The length in the middle of the vertical section is long enough to reach half way down the ear. The demonstration reports the length as 1 to 3 inches.

The next sections are taken vertically also. The second reaches from behind the ear to around the curve in the back of the head. Its length on the scalp is like the first section's length. It is cut from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hair line. It is also cut in the middle of the section. The next section goes to the middle nape.
Continue to cut all vertical sections until reaching the front hair line on the opposite side. A total of six sections was taken.
Cross check the hair just cut by taking horizontal sections and looking for the expected wave pattern in the in the perimeter.

Connect the sides and back to the top
Re establish the horse shoe shaped diagonal forward parting if it has been lost.
Take sections within the horse shoe shaped section which are parallel to the legs of the parting.
These sections are combed to the side and held parallel to the floor. These are point cut with the shears pointing back to direct the hair forward. The guide is from the vertical sections done on the side. This demonstration encourages cutting to the guide and into the guide for more texture. The points or notches are over an inch in depth and cut about every inch in length of the diagonal forward section. These notches are large and leave a jagged edge to the section. The points are cut at about 45 degrees to the edge of the section.
(This may clarify why the horse shoe shaped parting was taken with sides that are diagonally forward. By taking sides parallel to the sides of the horse shoe parting, you create sections which pivot around the distribution area in the crown. These will follow the natural growth pattern of the hair from the crown forward. By cutting these with notches directing the hair forward, the natural pattern of hair flow is encouraged.)
The diagonal forward sections are done again after the first set of notches, but this time point cutting is done at the perimeter of the section to smooth out the perimeter's jaggedness from the notch cutting. These points are cut with less of a point. The angle of cutting is less than 20 degrees. The points are done in the most jagged parts.

The diagonal forward sections are continued to the middle of the top and then the other side is done with the same two steps of notching.

Top is left long
Re establish the horse shoe shaped parting with the diagonal sides.
Make a side to side section starting at the back of the horse shoe shaped section.
Cut a convex layer across the top of the head. Length is guided by hair outside of the horse shoe shaped section.
In front of the first side to side section, all the rest of the front hair is combed into one very wide section which is combed back to the first section and cut to leave length on the top .

Use point cutting in different directions to finish the perimeter and get to the right length.

The innovation in this cut is the corrigation in the hair on the sides and back. This is supposed to be good for cutting wavy or curly hair to give it motion.

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