Thursday, March 4, 2010

M: Short flat layers side, medium height top, finish..

This haircut follows the same pattern as presented in the last couple of posts: Long on top, flat layers on sides, and Long hair with layers side and top.

These all start with a horse shoe shaped parting. The height of the parting either on the parietal ridge, above the ridge, or on in the flattest part of the head above the recession area will be changed depending on the desired weight placement.

Under the horse shoe parting, vertical sections are taken. In this haircut the side sections will be shorter than the two mentioned above. This haircut leaves relatively short hair on the sides and back. The head should not have protruding areas that will poke through this coverage.

The transition from sides and back to top will be with vertical sections in this cut.


1. Flat layers on sides and back
2. Transition from sides to top with vertical sections
3. Even the top area
4. Finish as desired

1. Flat layers on sides and back
Make a high horse shoe shaped parting starting at the deepest part of the recession area. It should be horizontal to the floor and continue around to the deepest part of the recession area on the other side.

Below the horse shaped parting take vertical sections and pull so that the top most piece in the section covers about half of the parietal ridge when it is cut and allowed to fall. In the video I watched this length was about 1 inch long.

Continue vertical sections through this side, through the back, and to the front hair line on the other side.
Cut the vertical sections from the horse shoe parting to the hair line.

The demo showed cutting vertical sections palm to palm with left hand fingers holding the hair and the fingers pointing up. I have cut these sections palm to palm and over hand. The over hand for this is to have the left hand fingers holding the hair and the fingers pointing down with the palm facing the scalp. I suspect that being skilled in both ways would help.

2. Transition from sides to top with vertical sections
Make a center part on the top of the head.

Starting behind the ear comb a section across the head from the center part to the side.

At the side pick up the hair that was cut in the vertical sections on the sides.

The hair from the top is pulled to be vertical to the floor and cut to the guide from the vertical sections on the side.

Continue to make these transition cuts toward the front hairline.

Hair in the recession area can be over directed back to keep length and weight.

Go behind the ear and pull and cut the hair in the same way. Go through back and other side of the head.

3. Even the top area

Re part the original horse shoe part from deepest recession on one side to the other.

Take sections across the horse shoe shape from side to side.
Pull these to 90 degrees from the top and cut flat with the ceiling using the hair cut in the transition cutting as the guide.
Can also cut these with convex layers where the hair in the middle is left longer if the hair it thin on top.

In the recession area the hair can be over directed to the previous section if needed.

4. Finish as desired> About half the time of this haircut was used to finish this haircut.
They used a clipper over comb low taper. This was used to put in a taper and to then smooth it with a fanning motion. The clipper comb was used horizontally and vertically for the fanning and the tapering.

Review AC Structured linear.
When cutting sections one after another, cut the first section and let it fall.
Then section off the next section in the uncut hair.
Comb this toward the cut hair.
Comb the rest of the uncut hair away from the cut hair.
Now section off the uncut hair in the new section with a comparable or larger part of the already cut hair.
Use this method to keep a system for repetitive sectioning and cutting. Can be used on sides or top.

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