Monday, March 1, 2010

W: Long on top and graduation below.

Client has a square shaped head and face. She has hair an inch below the jaw.

Center part from front to back.

Horse shoe part from below the crown to the top of the parietal ridge.

At center back at the horse shoe parting take a diagonal forward part from center to an inch in from center. This parting is said to be from the crown to the nape. However in the demo the part contains hair at the top down to the occipital area. The hair is pulled straight back and cut from long at the top to shorter at the bottom. It is not clear how the length of the hair in this section is determined.
Below the occipital bone the hair is cut to follow the line in the top of the section. They use a point cutting technique to soften this line.

More diagonal forward sections are taken and cut the same way. In front of the ear, the hair is over directed back to the section behind the ear.

Do same on other side.

Make part from crown to back of ears.

Do the same in the new section (from lower crown to upper crown) as above. That is taking radial diagonal forward sections and direct or over direct as above and point cut to guide from below.
In front of ears over direct back to previous section and elevate 90 degrees to the round of the head.
Do other side.

The rest of this demonstration shows ways to personalize this haircut with point cutting at the perimeter and in the shape.
The comb out of this haircut shows a parting on the client's left side. Haircut was done with a central parting on top

What I don't know:
How to measure length of section to start the graduation guideline.
Why central or natural part on top.
Why horse shoe partings are higher or lower. Will look in American Crew material.

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