Wednesday, March 3, 2010

M: Long on top, flat layers on sides..

This haircut will follow the pattern of cutting the sides perpendicular to create flat layers around the sides and back. These will then be transitioned to the top with a method to increase the weight and length above the parietal ridge. The top will then be evened out with a long length. Finishing can take several forms, but the goal will be to leave weight close to the perimeter.


1. Flat layers sides and back

2. Transition sides and back to top

3. Level the top while leaving length there

4. Finish as desired but leave weight near perimeter.

Flat layer sides and back

Make a horse shoe shaped parting slightly lower than the top of the parietal ridge. This should be parallel to the ground on sides and back.

Start at front hairline and make a vertical section pulled to 90 degrees.

The length in this section is measured at the top of the section. The top of the section, below the horse shoe parting, should be just long enough to cover the parietal ridge when it is released to natural fall.
This length at the top of the vertical sections will be the guide to the transition of the sides to the top in the next section.

Continue to form vertical sections under the horse shoe parting around the side, through the back, and then through the other side.

Sections are cut from the horse shoe parting to the bottom hairline.

Transition sides and back to top

Start on a side and take a vertical section (vertical sections on the top go front to back) just above the horse shoe parting and parallel to the parietal ridge. This parting goes from just behind the ear to the front hairline. Pull this section straight out from its parting to the side and parallel to the floor.

Cut to the guide length created in making the vertical sections above.

Continue this type of sectioning to the middle top.

Hair in each of the sections on the top will gradually be getting longer as the section moves closer to the center of the head and away from the guide on the side. In other words, the center section will have longer hair in it compared to the section just above the horse shoe part.

The guide for each section is taken from the section just below it.

In the recession area, the hair can be directed back to the lengths behind.

This sectioning is done the same way on the other side of the head and in the back of the head.

In the back sections hair is combed back until it no longer reaches the guide.

Side sections behind the ear are cut flat to the wall at the side.
Back sections are cut flat to the wall behind.
This will make corners behind the ears.

Level the top while leaving length there

On the very top of the head, make a horse shoe parting starting at the deepest part of the recession area staying parallel to the floor and going around the back and then to the deepest part of the recession area on the other side.

Take horizontal sections starting at the back of this horse shoe parting going side to side across the top of the head. Comb the sections straight up and cut flat with the shortest pieces on each end of the section.

Finish as desired but leave weight near perimeter

There are a number of choices to finish this haircut. A list would include: point cutting, a straight line, low graduation by shear over comb, low graduation by clipper over comb. The idea is to leave the length and weight low toward the perimeter to keep the haircut balanced top to bottom.

Review A/C Structured weight
Connecting the side to the top might also be done by taking side to side sections from the middle top to the side. This section could be held vertical so that the hair in the section is held straight out from the head and cut at 90 degrees.

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