Wednesday, March 3, 2010

M: Long hair with layers side and top..

This haircut is very similar to the post "Graduation with layers short hair." The difference is that this haircut has flat layers on the side and in the back. It also is connected top to bottom by combing the hair of top straight back to cut to the guide at the back. This preserves length and makes it longer in the front. Length of the final haircut will be to the bottom of the ears on the side. The hair has to be longer than ear length before starting.


1. flat layer the back and sides,

2. layer the top by over directing the hair on top back to the guide at the crown area.

3. finish the perimeter as desired.

Flat layer the sides and the back

Make a horse shoe shaped part starting at the top of the parietal ridge in the front and running horizontal to the floor along the sides and in the back. The horse shoe parting is taken at the top of the parietal ridge to allow for more length and weight on the sides as the top is connected to the bottom of the haircut.

Take vertical sections starting at the front hair line. This haircut can be started on either side. The hair is pulled at 90 degrees from the side and cut flat to the wall.

The length is measured at the top of this section and is measured to be long enough to reach near the middle of the ear after it is cut. This length will cover landmarks like the underside of the parietal ridge and will give the shape a smooth and rounded look. Remember this length for later in the haircut.

More vertical sections are taken to finish cutting the sides and back.

At the corner behind the ear more roundness of the shape will be achieved by following around the head shape. More of a corner is established by pulling the side sections flat to the wall at the side and all back sections back to the wall behind.

In the back and behind the ears the vertical sections are continued down to the hairline.

Once the middle of the back is reached you have two choices.

First is to continue the sections through the back and around the other side to the front.

The second is to go to the front hair line on the other side and work back to the center back. If you chose this method you already have your measurement for how long to make the length of the section from the measurement you made in the first side.

The sides and back can be crossed checked by taking horizontal sections. Remember to stay horizontal and to pull the hair to 90 degrees.

Layer the top by overdirecting hair on top straight back to guide in the crown.

Take horizontal partings across the top of the head from one side of the horseshoe to the other starting at the back of the horseshoe parting.

Sections are over directed straight back to the guide at the top of the back.

Continue to make horizontal partings and sections as you work forward on top of the head.

The hair is each subsequent section will be cut at a longer length since each following section will be further from the guide in the back.

Finish as desired

Examples of finishes would be to point cut the perimeter in the back to the desired length, or to cut a line across the back perimeter, or to do some graduation in the back.

To make more feminine

Make diagonal back sections on the sides and back as in the post "Graduation with layers short hair" to give more roundness in the interior.

Round the corners behind the ear by not creating corners during the layering (by following the head shape in layering behind the ears instead of cutting them flat to the wall).

Review AC structured length
Horse shoe shaped parting top of parietal ridge.
Vertical sections in front hairline long enough at top to reach middle of the ear. Continue around head and check it all horizontally.
Then side to side sections in the horse shoe shaped parting starting at crown area. Pull straight back in the crown. Don't round. Do more side to side sections going forward on the top. Keep elevation the same. Cut flat with the wall behind. Cut until no more reaches.
Finish with a few fingers of elevation and cut to desired length which was about 3 inches in this case.

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