Monday, March 1, 2010

M/W: Graduation with layers short hair

This is from watching a demonstration on a DVD. This style is repeated frequently in other courses on other DVDs. The are many variations on this style in cutting men's haircuts and short haircuts for women.

A general description of the hair cut follows.
Graduate the sides. Connect the sides to the top. Even out the top

Graduate the sides
1. Make a central parting from forehead to nape.
2. Then make a horse shoe parting starting at the low crown and going to the high part of the recession area. Where exactly this part should go requires further study.

3. In the back at center of the horse shoe parting, take slightly diagonal forward sections extending down to the nape. In other course work, These sections are just plain vertical sections. The diagonal forward sections may offer some roundness for feminine hair cuts compared to vertical sections?? Roundness may be added with diagonal partings and with longer lengths on the sides. Longer lengths on the side will cover the landmarks on the side and make it seem smoother.

4. Comb the section straight back and cut a graduated line of decreasing length from the interior to the perimeter. There is no description of how long the section should be at the top nor at the bottom. Even worse there is no description of how to figure out how long these measurements should be to get the result you want. Sections are held in left hand with fingers up and the palm facing the person doing the cutting. The cutting in these sections can be cut on a line or point cut. In addition there is no reason these could not be cut with razor or clippers.

5. Make more slightly diagonal forward sections working to the front hair line. These are all cut the same way until you reach the recession area where the last section is directed back to the previous section to preserve length and coverage in the recession area.

6. Do the other side. When they go to the other side they point left hand fingers down. This can also be cut with fingers going up and working either from the front to back or from center back to front hair line.

7. Connect side to top.

8. They start this part with a parting from the crown to the back of the ear saying it will separate the front of the head from the back of the head.

9. This particular demonstration takes radial sections in the back and pulls the hair out 90 degrees to the head. They then cut according to the guide of the graduation cut in the first section that had been cut above in 4. (As an aside I have seen this part of this type of haircut started behind the ear and worked forward. ) On men's cuts in this style American Crew encourages cutting the crown area with three different planes using vertical sections instead of the pivotal radial sections used for women (this is my interpretation of American Crew and it may have nothing to do with what they really say). One goes to each side and the third goes straight back. In men's haircuts, this gives a square look. Cutting around the head shape leaves the side areas more rounded as might be expected in a more feminine haircut.

10. Once the back section(s) are completed go to the sides and use more diagonal forward or vertical sections. Pull these to 90 degrees and extend the line cut below for graduation. If this is being cut on a man, use vertical sections. This may reduce roundness in men's cuts.

11. Connect the other side.

Even out the top
12. This demonstration now makes a central section down the middle top using the length cut in the crown as the guide.. This is followed by taking horizontal sections and they are pulled straight up at 90 degrees. These are cut flat with the ceiling, convex, or with different textures if desired. The front section is over directed back if needed for the recession area.

The horizontal sections across the top can go half way across the top to the central part or all the way across the top from the horse shoe shaped parting on each side. The top horizontal sections are cut to connect to the length of the hair cut in 9. above. This means that a central section does not need to be made if you are comfortable cutting across the head and using the lengths at the horse shoe partings as guides.

When this style of haircut is used for men it is cut to make the haircut look square with weight at the parietal ridge. This is done with vertical sections on the side and with cutting the sections above the crown to planes at the sides and in the back.

This demo did not say why the horse shoe parting is made at the height that was used. Some ideas on the best height for horse shoe partings are available in the American Crew Menswork, but I have not learned them well so far.

If the line used to cut the graduation was modified to be straight up and down, this haircut could be called layers with layers. The sides would be layered with square layers or flat layers on the side and the top would have the same flat layers.

A lot of different hair cuts are cut using this pattern. They are cut with shears, clippers and razor. The differences come with shorter and longer lengths of sides and top, different textures in the different locations. I guess this is true for all haircut patterns.

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