Monday, May 3, 2010

W: clipper, moderate, texture

This is a haircut done with clippers from start to finish. It does not use sectioning or parting and is a rapid way to get this haircut completed. It starts with a one length haircut that is cut all at once by cutting the perimeter completely through with the clipper at one time. Some graduation is then added to the perimeter. This is followed by point cutting the bangs to the correct length for good movement. Finally some weight is removed from near the perimeter to the ends by using the clipper with a texturizing blade that acts like thinning shears.

Cut the perimeter
The hair starts out at a length that just reaches the shoulders.
The head is tipped forward. The hair is combed down to natural fall. The stylist starts in the back combing the hair down. She then uses the spine of the comb to hold the hair against the skin about 2 inches below the jawline. She uses a replaceable blade clipper with a 000 blade and she cuts by turning the clipper over and pushing it through the hair to the skin. This is repeated to cut the back.

When she reaches the side of the head, the head is put in an upright position. The same method is used until reaching the ear. At the ear the hair is combed down and held with the non cutting hand palm facing you. It is then cut palm to palm with the clipper. The comb has been placed in the non cutting hand between the thumb and first finger.

Cut graduation in the back
Starting at the middle of the nape hairline sections are taken by eye and elevated to 45 degrees and cut using the bottom of the section as the guide to cut the hair at 45 degrees.
This is like taking diagonal forward sections in the back, elevating the sections to 45 degrees and cutting to follow the parting for the diagonal forward section. This stylist does not need to use the partings to see what needs to be done and where to pick up the hair. Less experienced stylist could use diagonal forward sections to give more definition.
The graduation is cut to about 2 inches from the end of the hair. It starts at the middle of the back of the head and works to the front hairline. Then do the other side the same way.

(In this video, the graduation is referred to as layering. This is a slight quibble but I think it is called graduation if it is not elevated over 90 degrees.)

Comb the hair forward from the apex in a triangular section starting at the apex an extending on each side to the outer eyebrow.
The hair is lifted with the palm of the holding hand facing the stylist. The hair is elevated a finger or two and points are cut along the holding fingers below the eyebrow level(fingers resting on the nose.) To cut the points the blade is turned so its length runs from the ceiling to the floor.
The fingers holding the hair are parallel to the floor. The leading edge of the blade is pushed into the hair to cut little notches or points along the length of the fingers holding the hair.

Once the length of the bangs is done, the bangs are divided in sections from front of the head to about about 3 inches toward the apex. These sections are combed up 90 degrees to the head shape and notches are cut along the fingers holding the hair. The guide is the hair length cut when point cutting to define the bangs length. Sections are done from one side of the bangs to the other.

Add texture near the perimeter by thinning
The Andis T-24 blade is used for this procedure. This blade has 5 cutting blades across the length of the blade in the moving section. It removes 24 % of the hair combed up by the non moving part of the blade. This demonstration reports it is like using a thinning shears but faster.

The hair near the perimeter is combed down and out and the the shear is inserted under the hair with the blade pointing away from the scalp. The blade enters the hair about 2 inches from the end and is pushed up through the hair and pulled away from the scalp. It is a quick way to reduce unwanted weight and to give movement.

This haircut shows how a haircut can be done with clippers. It uses a skilled stylist who has progressed beyond the stage of needing elaborate partings and sectioning to know what and where to cut. A less experienced stylist could do this haircut by taking more defined sections and cutting them individually with the clipper. For example in cutting the perimeter, horizontal sections could have been taken up the back of the head and each one cut to the guide instead of cutting all the hair in one section.

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