In this haircut the sides are cut with graduation. Sides and back are connected to the top and the top is evened.
1. Horse shoe shaped parting at top of parietal ridge
2. Take vertical sections below the horse shoe shaped parting
3. Connect the sides and back to the top
4. Even out the top
5. Use clipper over comb to refine the low graduation and the hairline.1. Horse shoe shaped parting at top of parietal ridge
Make a horse shoe shaped parting at the top of the parietal ridge. This is where the pointed part of the front hairline reaches back before starting to curve up more vertically.
See the post entitled "Transitioning side to top in men's haircuts" for more on how to look at the boundaries of the parietal section. This is an important post to study because it will be used in most men's haircuts.
Start at the front hair line and take vertical sections. Check the top of the section to see the length is long enough to cover most of the parietal ridge. This is about two inches. The bottom of the section is long enough to keep the scalp from being seen through the hair. This is about a finger's thickness or 1/2". Cut these sections with the fingers up and slanting from the top out about 2 inches , and the bottom about 1/2" from the scalp. Fingers at top of section are off the scalp to give the desired length and the knuckles at the bottom of the section rest on the head.
The slant of the fingers away from the top of the head and closer at the bottom creates the graduation.
In the back below the occipital bone the top of the fingers are close to the scalp and the knuckles near the hand are moved away from the nape to keep the angle consistent with the top of the section. At the very bottom of the nape the angle of graduation is increased by bringing the knuckles near the hand closer to the scalp at the nape hairline.
Continue around the head to the front hairline at the other side with vertical sections pulled to 90 degrees and with the fingers following the angle of graduation.
Check to see the hair pieces fall in the palm as the hair is cut palm to palm. This will help to check the fingers are straight up and down as they hold the section.
These vertical sections can be cross checked with horizontal sections. Take these horizontal sections below the horse shoe shaped parting. I do this by starting at the top and taking a section close to the horse shoe parting. I work around the head at one horizontal height and then come back and take another horizontal section below the first and again go around the head. This helps to correct any inconsistencies in my sectioning and following the guide. ( Ideally this cross checking is just to polish up the already cut hair by removing small inconsistencies. ) Cross checking can be done every few vertical sections to be sure you are not wandering into a longer length or a shorter length as you go around the head.
3. Connect the sides and back to the top
In this cut the connection from sides to top is done with front to back sections taken at the horse shoe shaped parting. The first section is just inside the horse shaped parting. It is combed straight out toward the wall on that side of the head. It is directed onto the length cut in the vertical sections. The next section is closer to the middle top of the head and it is also directed down onto the previously cut section. Directing the hair down to the previous section leaves it a little longer and heavier. Continue sections to the middle of the top and then do the same on the other side of the top of the head.
Connecting the top to the back is done by taking side to side sections at the back of the horse shoe shaped parting. These are combed directly back and cut to the length at the top of the vertical sections that had been cut at the back. This demonstration divided the back into three sections. There are sections going to the corners of the back of the head and there is a third section going straight back to the wall behind the client's head.
See the post entitled "Transitioning side to top in men's haircuts." Study this post.
4. Even out the top
Reestablish the horse shoe parting at the top of the parietal ridge. Take sections within the horse shoe shaped parting that run between the legs of the horse shoe shaped parting. These will be sections between the sides of the head.
The sections within the horse shoe shaped parting can be cut in a number of ways.
The easiest is to just cut them flat across the top parallel to the ceiling. The guides are at the ends of the sections. The guide lengths are the lengths cut in step 3. above.
Another way to cut these top sections is to cut them convex. In this method the hair in the section is cut more to follow the roundness of the top of the head. This will make the hair in the middle of the head longer than the guides at the end. This can give more hair in the middle if it is needed. In this method, if there is a lot of thinning, the roundness of the head can be exaggerated for even more bulk on top.
For both of these methods, start at the back of the horse shoe shaped parting and work forward. When the recession area is reached, these sections can be over directed back to leave more length and weight in the recession area.
5. Finish with clipper over comb and scissor over comb to refine the graduation near the hairline.
Review AC Graduated
No comments:
Post a Comment