Summary:
1. High horse shoe shaped parting
2.Vertical sections on sides cut flat
3. Connect sides and back to top
See post " Transitioning side to top in men's haircuts "
4. Slide cut the top so the hair flows back
5. Trim hairline
1. High horse shoe shaped parting
Make a horse shoe shaped parting starting at the front hairline at the deepest part of the recession area. It should be horizontal with the floor.
2.Vertical sections on sides cut flat
Vertical sections are taken going from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline beneath. The length of hair in the section is measured at its top. The hair at the top should just reach the top of the parietal ridge when it falls. This is typically less than 2 inches.
The hair is cut flat with the wall. This means it is cut straight up and down from the floor to the ceiling.
See the accompanying figure. In the figure you can see that the hair at the top of the vertical section is longest at the top of the section. This is because the head shape is curving away from the cutting line. As you come down the cutting line the head shape get closer and closer to the cutting line until it reaches the closest point to the cutting line at the peak of the parietal ridge.
Because the hair is longest at the top of the section, this hair will add the most weight to the area above the parietal ridge. Each hair below the top is slightly shorter and will also add weight, but the weight will not fall as far because the hair is shorter. The effect is to give hair build up above the parietal ridge. At the parietal ridge the hair is shortest and will contribute less weight.
Below the parietal ridge the hair length again increases as the head shape curves away from the cutting line and more toward the neck. This increase in length gives more weight below the parietal ridge.
The overall effect of the flat layering is to add weight above and below the parietal ridge. This give the head shape smoothness and uniformity.
In the back of the head, the method is the same. The vertical sections are cut to the same flat line from ceiling to floor.
Vertical sections are taken all around the head under the horse shoe shaped parting.
3. Connect sides and back to top
In the video I am watching, the method for connecting the sides and back to the top involved taking center to side sections on top of the head. If the horse shoe shaped parting was lost in making the center part on top of the head, it is worthwhile to re do it. This gives a good outline for the range of the center to side sections. The horse shoe shaped parting can be done a little lower on the sides to include a small part of the vertical sections that were cut on the sides. These will be the guide for connecting the sides to the top.
The demonstration took two center to side sections starting behind the ear. Each was picked up on a slant so that the part of the section near the middle of the head had longer hair and the hair near the sides was shorter. The hair was pulled to be nearly vertical from floor to ceiling where it was cut to the guide from the vertical section.
It is not clear why two sections were taken in this manner instead of just one.
After this all the rest of the hair in front of the second section was over directed back and cut to the guide established in the second section. This will leave the hair on the top and in the front very long if this is what your client wants.
The same thing is done on the other side starting from behind the ear and working forward.
In the back the same method is used as in the first two sections taken behind the ears. These are vertical sections cut flat with the wall or cut flat with a vertical line from ceiling to floor.
4. Slide cut the top so the hair flows back
Slide cutting works the same way point cutting works by making part of the hair shorter so it can push the longer hair in the desired direction .
In point cutting you cut from the ends of the hair to the middle of the hair length. In slide cutting you cut from the middle of the hair to the end.
In point cutting the handles of the shears are going in the direction of desired flow and the points are going in the direction opposite the flow . In slide cutting the handles of the shears come from the direction the flow starts and the points go in the direction of the flow.
In point cutting the shear handles are high from the scalp and the points are closer. In slide cutting, the handles of the shears are close to the scalp and the points are further away.
In both slide cutting and point cutting, sections are taken along the path of the desired hair flow.
In this demonstration the slide cutting is to make the hair flow back. A central section is taken on top of the head and slide cutting is done by starting at the back of this section. Pieces are taken and slide cut from front to back on what looks like about 45 degrees with a removal of more than two inches where the slide cutting starts. It goes to no removal at the back of the section piece.
Following the central section on top, sections are taken on either side and the slide cutting is repeated in the desired direction. For example side sections may be more directed to the center and back.
5. Trim hairline
Trim hairline with low graduation or leave the length at the hairline and reduce weight at the end so it lies smoothly on the skin. This can also be done with slide cutting the hair from inside the hairline to the hairline.
Review AC Square
On another viewing of the horse shoe shaped parting, it looks like it goes down slightly in the back of the head.
No comments:
Post a Comment