The haircut begins with a one length haircut. The demonstration presented the one length that is square to one length in the back and has a slightly increasing perimeter length on the side from the ear forward. This is described in a previous note.
This haircut involves framing the face in front. Face framing in this case is cutting a round perimeter to the front of the haircut. This means the perimeter in the front is shortest at the center and gets progressively longer toward the ears.
The face framing is a more extensive use of the technique used in cutting bangs.
As the sections for the face framing are done they are combed forward and elevated to 45 degrees at the front of the face.
Summary
One length haircut
Center part
Diagonal back part from center part to ear on each side
Comb forward of face and hold at 45 degree elevation from the face
Cut across the section making an angle of 45 degrees across the hair section
From center part now make pivoting back sections and cut to the guide
One length haircut
1. Do a one length haircut as described in previous note(s).
Center part
2. Make a center part from forehead to nape.
Diagonal back part from center part to ear on each side
3. Take diagonal back section from about one inch in on the center part to the top of the ear. This should be deep enough to be sure it includes hair from behind the recession area.
Comb forward of face and hold at 45 degree elevation from the face
4. Pull this section forward and keep the holding fingers parallel to the part. Now elevate from the head so it is 45 degrees from the front of the face. To do this think of the face as flat in front and put an end of the comb on the space between the eyes. The other end of the comb will now point at 90 degrees. Lower the section down 45 degrees from the way the comb points.
Cut across the section making an angle of 45 degrees across the hair section
5. Hold the section at:
the desired length,
the correct elevation,
with the holding fingers parallel to the part.
6. Cut along the fingers across the section. This should be about 45 degrees across the hair in the section. It will be necessary to break this up into pieces as it is too long for one cutting.
When the cut section falls watch the angle it makes with the face. It can be aimed at a facial landmark like the chin, lips or nose. This can be modified by changing the angle cut across the section. This will help it to fit the face better by opening up or closing the hair around the face.
7. Repeat 3. to 6. on the other side and check to see they are balanced in length and angle.
From center part now make pivoting back sections and cut to the guide
8. Repeated pivoting sections are now taken on each side.
The demonstration showed pivoting sections going back. Each section will have more hair that is combed to the side as the sections go back. This hair is also elevated to 45 degrees from the side and cut to the guide from the previous section.
Pivoting sections continue until the center parting is met.
( Alternative parting: Hair in the back of the head is not cut. This means that a part could have been made from the crown to behind the ears to separate the back from the front. The pivoting sections then need not go any further back than the part from the crown to the ears. )
What I don't understand: where graduation comes into this. I suspect it is related to the sections being elevated to 45 degrees.
This haircut involves framing the face in front. Face framing in this case is cutting a round perimeter to the front of the haircut. This means the perimeter in the front is shortest at the center and gets progressively longer toward the ears.
The face framing is a more extensive use of the technique used in cutting bangs.
As the sections for the face framing are done they are combed forward and elevated to 45 degrees at the front of the face.
Summary
One length haircut
Center part
Diagonal back part from center part to ear on each side
Comb forward of face and hold at 45 degree elevation from the face
Cut across the section making an angle of 45 degrees across the hair section
From center part now make pivoting back sections and cut to the guide
One length haircut
1. Do a one length haircut as described in previous note(s).
Center part
2. Make a center part from forehead to nape.
Diagonal back part from center part to ear on each side
3. Take diagonal back section from about one inch in on the center part to the top of the ear. This should be deep enough to be sure it includes hair from behind the recession area.
Comb forward of face and hold at 45 degree elevation from the face
4. Pull this section forward and keep the holding fingers parallel to the part. Now elevate from the head so it is 45 degrees from the front of the face. To do this think of the face as flat in front and put an end of the comb on the space between the eyes. The other end of the comb will now point at 90 degrees. Lower the section down 45 degrees from the way the comb points.
Cut across the section making an angle of 45 degrees across the hair section
5. Hold the section at:
the desired length,
the correct elevation,
with the holding fingers parallel to the part.
6. Cut along the fingers across the section. This should be about 45 degrees across the hair in the section. It will be necessary to break this up into pieces as it is too long for one cutting.
When the cut section falls watch the angle it makes with the face. It can be aimed at a facial landmark like the chin, lips or nose. This can be modified by changing the angle cut across the section. This will help it to fit the face better by opening up or closing the hair around the face.
7. Repeat 3. to 6. on the other side and check to see they are balanced in length and angle.
From center part now make pivoting back sections and cut to the guide
8. Repeated pivoting sections are now taken on each side.
The demonstration showed pivoting sections going back. Each section will have more hair that is combed to the side as the sections go back. This hair is also elevated to 45 degrees from the side and cut to the guide from the previous section.
Pivoting sections continue until the center parting is met.
( Alternative parting: Hair in the back of the head is not cut. This means that a part could have been made from the crown to behind the ears to separate the back from the front. The pivoting sections then need not go any further back than the part from the crown to the ears. )
What I don't understand: where graduation comes into this. I suspect it is related to the sections being elevated to 45 degrees.
No comments:
Post a Comment