Take a look at the post W: Round haircut with graduation formula done in February.
It gives a view of doing round graduation starting with a one length round haircut. In this current haircut the client does not have a one length round haircut. She has longer hair on the top. This is dealt with after the graduation on the sides and back is complete. The graduation on the side is done as in the round haircut with graduation formula, but it is divided differently. In that case there was another sectioning part from the crown to behind the ear. The graduation was done on both sides first and then done behind the ears. In this case, a side and the back is done in one step before starting over on the other side.
In this haircut the round graduation is done around the sides and back and then the top is pulled back to round out the back and to leave length in the front on top. This is followed by a couple of steps to connect the top to the sides. The first is to connect within the horse shoe shaped section on the top and the second is to be sure the hair outside of the horse shoe shaped section is connected to the top.
Assess hair line, growth and head shape. Decide hair length and manually form the design.
Make a horse shoe shaped parting starting at deepest part of recession and going back to the midwaybetween the occipital bone and crown. Another way to describe this part is to start at front center hairline at top and go to the side to where the hair just starts to recede. Start the part there and go to the mid point between occipital bone and crown.
Cut the round graduation below the horse shoe shaped section
At the front hair line below the horse shoe shaped parting take diagonal back partings starting at the top about 1/2 inch in from the hair line and going toward the ear. These sections look like they are on a 45 degree angle with the floor. The section is combed slightly forward and cut to the head shape. I think this means it is a little shorter at the bottom near the ear than it is at the top. The hair is pulled straight out from the head with only a slight over direction to the front of the head. The cut hair will be a bit longer on the top of the section and shorter or closer to the scalp toward the ear. This will give some build up of weight at the top of the section.
In this demonstration the length on the side at the top of the section look like it is 1.5 inches.
Continue to take sections parallel to the first. Each is combed to the previous section for a guide. On reaching behind the ear, the section will go from the horse shoe shaped parting on top to the hair line on the bottom. The section is cut to the same guide line.
Sections are cut through the back until the top of the section reaches the middle of the nape and the bottom of the section has reached the far side of the nape hair line.
After finishing one side, start over in the front on the other side. Work the same method until that side is done.
Establishing the length in the horse shoe shaped section
Take side to side sections across the back of the horse shoe shaped section. Cut these to match the hair just outside the back of the horse shoe shaped section. They should be rounded slightly in this part.
Continue to take side to side sections as you move forward through the horse shoe shaped section on the top. These sections are combed directly back and cut to the guide in the previous section. This means the guide moves up gradually.
These sections determine the length that will be left in the front.
Refine the shape and length in the horse shoe shaped section
Take a front to back section in the middle of the horse shoe shaped section. This is combed up and back and cut from the guide in the very back of this section up. In the crown the hair is pulled out at 90 degrees to the crown head shape. This gives a straight line that is continued through the front to back section until the hair no longer reaches this line.
Follow the center front to back section with parallel ones on each side of the first. On the sides, the sections are over directed to the center section. Work the parallel sections to the sides of the horse shoe shaped section.
Connect the side to the top
Re establish the horse shoe shaped parting if it has been lost.
Divide the horse shoe shaped section with a front to back middle part.
Take center to side parts starting at the ear and pull the hair up with some of the hair outside the horse shoe shaped section. Cut this section to follow the head shape on top.
Take more center to side sections working toward the front hair line. These are all over directed to the section at the ear to leave length on the top front.
Do the same thing on the other side of the center part of the horse shoe shaped section.
Connect the crown to the top
Take vertical sections in the back where the nape and the crown work meet. Cut these sections vertically so they blend.
Cross check the graduation on the sides with vertical sections and horizontal sections.
Use point cutting to finish the perimeter.
Use shears over comb for the final touches to the graduation.
Trim the bangs for excess weight by pulling them straight up and cutting them flat with the ceiling.
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