Saw a demonstration using point cutting to reduce a weight line. It was cut into a section where the hair was about 4 to 5 inches long.
I plan to try this on styles for men as a way of blending away weight lines.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Using thinning shears to reduce weight
Saw a video using thinning shears to reduce weight. The stylist emphasized making 3 cuts along the length of the hair to get good reduction in weight.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
M: short, clipper over comb
1. Cut the sides using clipper over comb technique.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
w: One length square with layers.
1. Cut the one length square haircut as described in a previous post.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
M: clipper, short, layering, clipper over comb taper
This is a haircut done with clippers. It starts at the top and works its way down to the perimeter where the hair is tapered. The top is done in layering where the top is pulled 90 degrees to the ceiling and cut parallel to the head shape. The curve of the top to side connection is then done. It continues pulling the hair to 90 degrees from the head shape and the hair is cut to follow the head shape over the curve. After getting over the curve the top of the side is cut to 90 degrees from the side. This 9o degrees from the side is continued low enough on the side to reach into the lower part of the haircut where the tapering will be cut.
Many of the other haircuts done in these posts start at the bottom and work their way to the top. This haircut takes the starting as the top and works its way down. Each approach has its advantages. Try this one to see which you prefer.
The layering in this haircut is done using the back hand technique. This technique has been described before in a post called: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture.
In this haircut a new way of doing this technique is used. In the old way the clipper is placed in the hand with the blade near the pinkie or heel of the hand. The cord end of the clipper comes out of the hand between the thumb and first finger. If the palm of the hand holding the clipper faces the ceiling, the blade of the clipper also faces the ceiling. This hand also holds the clipper comb with it inserted in between the second and third fingers. The teeth of the comb are facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper blade. This allows you to turn the blade away from the client while combing the hair to you.
In this haircut, the comb is initially placed with the teeth of the comb facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper. This is used for layering across the top and for layering the client's right side while you stand behind the client.
To layer the left side of the client, the stylist moves to in front of the client and decides to cut the layering by cutting sections from the front of the client to the back. The stylist combs the hair away from himself toward the back of the client. To achieve this he rotated the comb 180 degrees and had the teeth of the comb facing in the opposite direction that the teeth of the clipper faced.
I tried this and did not find it that useful for me. This may be because I have not practiced this. For me it was relatively easy to move to the client's front for cutting the client's right side by combing the sections toward me before cutting the side layering.
Layering the top
This is started by cutting a center section in the middle of the top of the head. The section runs from the front hairline through the crown.
This center section is not specifically sectioned off before cutting in this demonstration. This stylist has a ton of experience and holds records for haircutting speed. He does not need to comb out the section parts on both sides to see what has to be picked up in the section. For the less experienced cutter, it is a big help to clearly part off the section.
Once the section is determined, it is lifted up 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. This will be the guide for the rest of the haircut. The length of this section is determined in consultation with the client before the haircut is started. The hair is cut using the back hand clipper technique. The hair is held in the non cutting hand with the pads of the fingers closer to the scalp. The hair is then cut along the backs of the fingers.
Once the center guide is finished, sections are taken side to side from the middle top of the head to the side. These are pulled up to 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. Again this stylist does not comb out clear parts to show the limits of these sections in the top. For someone with less experience, making clear parts for each section is a big help. These are also cut using the back hand clipper technique. At the crown area, the sections pivot around the back of the head.
Layering the sides
Once the top of the head has been layered, the sides are layered by taking sections that connect the top through the sides. These run from the side of the top to down the side. The section should go at least through the widest parts of the head at the widest part of the parietal ridge on the sides and occipital bone in the back. Each section is combed to 90 degrees from the head shape and cut to follow the head shape. Do the other side of the top the same way. It may be more convenient to cut the client's left side from the front of the client.
If you start on the client's right side, you can continue these sections through the right side through the back and then through the client's left side. You could also start on the right side, work to the middle back, and then move the clients front left and work to the middle back again.
The guide for all the sections is taken from the hair above which has already been cut.
Tapering from the bottom up
A clipper over comb technique is used. The middle back is used to define the angle of the taper from the hairline to the blend with the previously cut hair.
Hair is combed into natural fall.
The comb is inserted into the hair at the middle of the hairline line with the teeth pointing up the head. The comb is then tilted away from the head at the desired angle of the taper. The clipper is then run along the comb to cut it.
In some other haircuts, the angle for the taper is described as following the head shape up to the occipital bone. This means the comb is tilted away from the head at the top until the comb is parallel to the underlying head structure.
Once the first cut is made in the taper, the comb is inserted into the hair again at a small angle from the horizontal like 20 to 30 degrees. The comb is moved vertically up the previously cut taper until the tapered part of the hair is seen at the bottom of the comb's teeth. The teeth of the comb is again tilted away from the head until it matches the desired angle of the taper. The amount of tilting of the teeth away from the head shape will increase as the comb is moved up the head. This will accommodate the natural slope of the head shape as it moves back going from the hairline to the occipital bone.
The hair protruding beyond the comb next to the guide is then cut.
When the comb reaches the already cut layering on the side the tapering from below should blend the joining of the taper from below with the layering above.
Once the first vertical section is cut to your satisfaction, move to the left or right of this section and start all over again at the hairline. Move vertically again and tilt the comb teeth away from the head shape to match the taper in the first cut. This travelling guide will take you around one side of the head to the ear on one side and then the other.
Cut the double taper in front of the ear
In front of the ear, the hair is cut with a taper that is similar to the taper behind the ear but with one big difference. In front of the ear there is also a taper from the front hairline to the top of the ear. This means there is a vertical taper going from the sideburns area and there is also a taper where the hair near the front hairline is shorter than the hair on top of the ear. This taper is achieved by having the comb closer at the front hairline and further from the scalp at the ear while tilting the teeth of the comb away from the head shape.
Once this double taper has been cut, it is connected to the taper behind the ear by using the comb to hold each taper at different ends of the comb. The cut is to then connect the two guides with a smooth line.
The taper part of this haircut is done with clipper over comb in this haircut. The commentary on this demonstration says this is the single most important skill to master in men's clipper cutting.
The taper can also be cut free hand or with a series of clipper guards going from longer to shorter.
Many of the other haircuts done in these posts start at the bottom and work their way to the top. This haircut takes the starting as the top and works its way down. Each approach has its advantages. Try this one to see which you prefer.
The layering in this haircut is done using the back hand technique. This technique has been described before in a post called: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture.
In this haircut a new way of doing this technique is used. In the old way the clipper is placed in the hand with the blade near the pinkie or heel of the hand. The cord end of the clipper comes out of the hand between the thumb and first finger. If the palm of the hand holding the clipper faces the ceiling, the blade of the clipper also faces the ceiling. This hand also holds the clipper comb with it inserted in between the second and third fingers. The teeth of the comb are facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper blade. This allows you to turn the blade away from the client while combing the hair to you.
In this haircut, the comb is initially placed with the teeth of the comb facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper. This is used for layering across the top and for layering the client's right side while you stand behind the client.
To layer the left side of the client, the stylist moves to in front of the client and decides to cut the layering by cutting sections from the front of the client to the back. The stylist combs the hair away from himself toward the back of the client. To achieve this he rotated the comb 180 degrees and had the teeth of the comb facing in the opposite direction that the teeth of the clipper faced.
I tried this and did not find it that useful for me. This may be because I have not practiced this. For me it was relatively easy to move to the client's front for cutting the client's right side by combing the sections toward me before cutting the side layering.
Layering the top
This is started by cutting a center section in the middle of the top of the head. The section runs from the front hairline through the crown.
This center section is not specifically sectioned off before cutting in this demonstration. This stylist has a ton of experience and holds records for haircutting speed. He does not need to comb out the section parts on both sides to see what has to be picked up in the section. For the less experienced cutter, it is a big help to clearly part off the section.
Once the section is determined, it is lifted up 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. This will be the guide for the rest of the haircut. The length of this section is determined in consultation with the client before the haircut is started. The hair is cut using the back hand clipper technique. The hair is held in the non cutting hand with the pads of the fingers closer to the scalp. The hair is then cut along the backs of the fingers.
Once the center guide is finished, sections are taken side to side from the middle top of the head to the side. These are pulled up to 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. Again this stylist does not comb out clear parts to show the limits of these sections in the top. For someone with less experience, making clear parts for each section is a big help. These are also cut using the back hand clipper technique. At the crown area, the sections pivot around the back of the head.
Layering the sides
Once the top of the head has been layered, the sides are layered by taking sections that connect the top through the sides. These run from the side of the top to down the side. The section should go at least through the widest parts of the head at the widest part of the parietal ridge on the sides and occipital bone in the back. Each section is combed to 90 degrees from the head shape and cut to follow the head shape. Do the other side of the top the same way. It may be more convenient to cut the client's left side from the front of the client.
If you start on the client's right side, you can continue these sections through the right side through the back and then through the client's left side. You could also start on the right side, work to the middle back, and then move the clients front left and work to the middle back again.
The guide for all the sections is taken from the hair above which has already been cut.
Tapering from the bottom up
A clipper over comb technique is used. The middle back is used to define the angle of the taper from the hairline to the blend with the previously cut hair.
Hair is combed into natural fall.
The comb is inserted into the hair at the middle of the hairline line with the teeth pointing up the head. The comb is then tilted away from the head at the desired angle of the taper. The clipper is then run along the comb to cut it.
In some other haircuts, the angle for the taper is described as following the head shape up to the occipital bone. This means the comb is tilted away from the head at the top until the comb is parallel to the underlying head structure.
Once the first cut is made in the taper, the comb is inserted into the hair again at a small angle from the horizontal like 20 to 30 degrees. The comb is moved vertically up the previously cut taper until the tapered part of the hair is seen at the bottom of the comb's teeth. The teeth of the comb is again tilted away from the head until it matches the desired angle of the taper. The amount of tilting of the teeth away from the head shape will increase as the comb is moved up the head. This will accommodate the natural slope of the head shape as it moves back going from the hairline to the occipital bone.
The hair protruding beyond the comb next to the guide is then cut.
When the comb reaches the already cut layering on the side the tapering from below should blend the joining of the taper from below with the layering above.
Once the first vertical section is cut to your satisfaction, move to the left or right of this section and start all over again at the hairline. Move vertically again and tilt the comb teeth away from the head shape to match the taper in the first cut. This travelling guide will take you around one side of the head to the ear on one side and then the other.
Cut the double taper in front of the ear
In front of the ear, the hair is cut with a taper that is similar to the taper behind the ear but with one big difference. In front of the ear there is also a taper from the front hairline to the top of the ear. This means there is a vertical taper going from the sideburns area and there is also a taper where the hair near the front hairline is shorter than the hair on top of the ear. This taper is achieved by having the comb closer at the front hairline and further from the scalp at the ear while tilting the teeth of the comb away from the head shape.
Once this double taper has been cut, it is connected to the taper behind the ear by using the comb to hold each taper at different ends of the comb. The cut is to then connect the two guides with a smooth line.
The taper part of this haircut is done with clipper over comb in this haircut. The commentary on this demonstration says this is the single most important skill to master in men's clipper cutting.
The taper can also be cut free hand or with a series of clipper guards going from longer to shorter.
Friday, May 14, 2010
Nose hairs
If I ask about this service, many men want a trim of the nose hairs as much as they want their ear hairs trimmed. Many who want the service will not initially ask for it. Once it has been done, a lot will request this service. Most of the men complain they cannot see where to cut inside of the nose. Others don't have scissors they trust up their nose.
Tools
Getting the right tool makes this somewhat easier. A pair of scissors with rounded ends can be bought at beauty supply stores. I have also seen them in regular drug stores. They are some times labelled for nose and ear use. The usual length is about 3 to 4 inches.
The rounded ends make you and the client more comfortable.
For long hairs sticking out of the nose, a trimmer can cut them off at the nasal opening. This is usually a more temporary fix.
Preparing the nose for cutting
As preparation for cutting the nose hairs, have the client blow his nose on both sides. Blowing the nose is just the beginning. Next have them put tissue on a finger and wipe the inner part of the nose in a circular motion going around the entire opening. Special attention is to be given to the top of the inner wall of the nose opening. Both sides of wall between the nose openings should be as clean as possible.
A little mucous will not interfere with trimming the hair. The walls of the nasal openings are frequently moist.
Cutting the hair
The idea in cutting this hair is to reduce the length while not cutting the client. A good cut is to reduce the hair length to about 1/8 of an inch. Do not try to completely remove the hair.
Be prepared that many people experience a tickling discomfort during this procedure. Ask the client to be particularly still and to warn you if they need to sneeze.
Tip the client's head back and aim the nose opening to the brightest light.
Insert the scissors slowly and keep the blade close to the side of the nasal opening. Don't touch the nose with the scissors at the front or along the sides. The point/ball should be aimed slightly more toward the center to be sure it does not poke the client.
Start at one point of the opening cutting the hair slowly and methodically. Work your way around the perimeter cutting hair as you come to it. Don't be misled into just chasing long hairs.
When you get to the top of the wall between the nasal openings, look for the recess under the top of the nose near the front. This is frequently an area of dense hair growth. It will be the first place for hair to stick out because it is so close to the front. Do both openings.
Have the client check the work
After finishing the cutting, have the client feel the inside of the nose to see if you missed anything. A tissue for cleaning up is appreciated after this.
Clean you tools and wash your hand
Scissors and hands have to be thoroughly washed after this service. The scissors can be dried and soaked in Barbicide.
If blood has been drawn, Universal Precautions should be followed. You will need to put on rubber gloves, double bag the clean up paper or cloth, wash and disinfect everything. Treat everything like it is infected with AIDS.
Follow up
Check out the nose hairs on everyone you see. Some like your barber, your significant other, stylist, dentist, etc are particularly concerned about looking well groomed.
Tools
Getting the right tool makes this somewhat easier. A pair of scissors with rounded ends can be bought at beauty supply stores. I have also seen them in regular drug stores. They are some times labelled for nose and ear use. The usual length is about 3 to 4 inches.
The rounded ends make you and the client more comfortable.
For long hairs sticking out of the nose, a trimmer can cut them off at the nasal opening. This is usually a more temporary fix.
Preparing the nose for cutting
As preparation for cutting the nose hairs, have the client blow his nose on both sides. Blowing the nose is just the beginning. Next have them put tissue on a finger and wipe the inner part of the nose in a circular motion going around the entire opening. Special attention is to be given to the top of the inner wall of the nose opening. Both sides of wall between the nose openings should be as clean as possible.
A little mucous will not interfere with trimming the hair. The walls of the nasal openings are frequently moist.
Cutting the hair
The idea in cutting this hair is to reduce the length while not cutting the client. A good cut is to reduce the hair length to about 1/8 of an inch. Do not try to completely remove the hair.
Be prepared that many people experience a tickling discomfort during this procedure. Ask the client to be particularly still and to warn you if they need to sneeze.
Tip the client's head back and aim the nose opening to the brightest light.
Insert the scissors slowly and keep the blade close to the side of the nasal opening. Don't touch the nose with the scissors at the front or along the sides. The point/ball should be aimed slightly more toward the center to be sure it does not poke the client.
Start at one point of the opening cutting the hair slowly and methodically. Work your way around the perimeter cutting hair as you come to it. Don't be misled into just chasing long hairs.
When you get to the top of the wall between the nasal openings, look for the recess under the top of the nose near the front. This is frequently an area of dense hair growth. It will be the first place for hair to stick out because it is so close to the front. Do both openings.
Have the client check the work
After finishing the cutting, have the client feel the inside of the nose to see if you missed anything. A tissue for cleaning up is appreciated after this.
Clean you tools and wash your hand
Scissors and hands have to be thoroughly washed after this service. The scissors can be dried and soaked in Barbicide.
If blood has been drawn, Universal Precautions should be followed. You will need to put on rubber gloves, double bag the clean up paper or cloth, wash and disinfect everything. Treat everything like it is infected with AIDS.
Follow up
Check out the nose hairs on everyone you see. Some like your barber, your significant other, stylist, dentist, etc are particularly concerned about looking well groomed.
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
M: clipper, long, ethnic Afro lining
This is a haircut of few steps. It involves a lot of free hand clipper cutting. The stylist needs to see in advance what the final design should look like. The excess length is then cut from the ends of the hair so that the design emerges.
Unlike cutting less curly hair, the sections of this haircut don't need to be pulled out once the hair is all combed out from the scalp. The sections are in effect 90 degrees from the scalp before cutting, during cutting and after cutting. These sections don't collapse on the scalp once they have been cut. The sections don't need to be picked up one at a time and cut and released.
This last may be an alternative way to cut this haircut. That is, it could be cut by treating it like an ordinary 90 degree haircut in floppy hair with all the hair pulled up in sections and held between two fingers until the clipper cuts it. Because the hair stands up on its own the sectioning and holding can be simplified to just making sure the hair is cut to the right length.
The hair needs to be untangled by combing with a pick comb. The hair is combed straight out from the head form at 90 degrees. The effect is to have the hair standing on end.
Start at the distribution point and cut pivoting sections
The clipper with blade for carving the ends of the hair is used. In this demonstration the 0A F/D blade is used. It seems that any blade which gives a close cut could be used. This would include a clipper with no guard and the blade closed. I don't have an 0A F/D so I would use a plain 0/A or a 000 blade.
The clipper is suspended off the scalp near the ends of the hair in the distribution center. The first section is down the top middle to the forehead. The sections are then pivoted around the distribution center in the crown. The sections are overlapped. Only the ends of the hair are cut in forming this shape. The entire surface of the hair is cut with each section starting at the center crown. In the demonstration, they break the sections into three pieces. The first is the top of the section, the second is the bottom of the section. The third is the connection of these two sections.
The clipper follows the overall head shape as it comes from the distribution point. This gives an overall round shape to the head. The demonstration defines the movement of the clipper as light and cruising. The need is to avoid denting the work.
Connecting the top of the haircut to the bottom is done in exactly the same way. It is to be sure the two parts are blended smoothly. The clipper glides over the shape at the ends of the hair.
The demonstration encourages going around the head systematically in doing the three cuts. The first was cutting the top, the second was cutting the bottom and the third was connecting the two. From the demonstration the cuts start at the top middle are rotate around the head to the top middle again.
It is not clear that the three sections need to be separated. It looks like they could all be cut at the same time by starting at the distribution point and cutting to the hair line in each section. The final blending at the hair ends could be applied to the entire sections cut by the clipper in each pass.
Taper the perimeter
This takes another complete turn around the sides and back of the head.
In the demonstration, the tapering looks like it starts about 2 inches from the perimeter. The angle is less than 45 degrees and looks closer to vertical - it is not a steep slope to the perimeter.
The tapering does not end up being close at the perimeter. It appears there is nearly 1/2 inch of hair length at the perimeter.
This tapering was not done in the area over the forehead. However it was partially done in the initial pivotal sections done on the top. This took place as the cut followed the natural slope of the front top of the head to the forehead.
Line the perimeter
This is done in the usual way. The clipper or trimmer is turned over so the heel of the blade is toward the ceiling. The blade is then gently touched to the hairline along the desired line. The client usually has strong feelings about how deep this line should be cut into the hairline. Less is generally preferred to more.
The line is continued around the perimeter. If hair is found over hanging the ears, etc, they are also trimmed away now.
Unlike cutting less curly hair, the sections of this haircut don't need to be pulled out once the hair is all combed out from the scalp. The sections are in effect 90 degrees from the scalp before cutting, during cutting and after cutting. These sections don't collapse on the scalp once they have been cut. The sections don't need to be picked up one at a time and cut and released.
This last may be an alternative way to cut this haircut. That is, it could be cut by treating it like an ordinary 90 degree haircut in floppy hair with all the hair pulled up in sections and held between two fingers until the clipper cuts it. Because the hair stands up on its own the sectioning and holding can be simplified to just making sure the hair is cut to the right length.
The hair needs to be untangled by combing with a pick comb. The hair is combed straight out from the head form at 90 degrees. The effect is to have the hair standing on end.
Start at the distribution point and cut pivoting sections
The clipper with blade for carving the ends of the hair is used. In this demonstration the 0A F/D blade is used. It seems that any blade which gives a close cut could be used. This would include a clipper with no guard and the blade closed. I don't have an 0A F/D so I would use a plain 0/A or a 000 blade.
The clipper is suspended off the scalp near the ends of the hair in the distribution center. The first section is down the top middle to the forehead. The sections are then pivoted around the distribution center in the crown. The sections are overlapped. Only the ends of the hair are cut in forming this shape. The entire surface of the hair is cut with each section starting at the center crown. In the demonstration, they break the sections into three pieces. The first is the top of the section, the second is the bottom of the section. The third is the connection of these two sections.
The clipper follows the overall head shape as it comes from the distribution point. This gives an overall round shape to the head. The demonstration defines the movement of the clipper as light and cruising. The need is to avoid denting the work.
Connecting the top of the haircut to the bottom is done in exactly the same way. It is to be sure the two parts are blended smoothly. The clipper glides over the shape at the ends of the hair.
The demonstration encourages going around the head systematically in doing the three cuts. The first was cutting the top, the second was cutting the bottom and the third was connecting the two. From the demonstration the cuts start at the top middle are rotate around the head to the top middle again.
It is not clear that the three sections need to be separated. It looks like they could all be cut at the same time by starting at the distribution point and cutting to the hair line in each section. The final blending at the hair ends could be applied to the entire sections cut by the clipper in each pass.
Taper the perimeter
This takes another complete turn around the sides and back of the head.
In the demonstration, the tapering looks like it starts about 2 inches from the perimeter. The angle is less than 45 degrees and looks closer to vertical - it is not a steep slope to the perimeter.
The tapering does not end up being close at the perimeter. It appears there is nearly 1/2 inch of hair length at the perimeter.
This tapering was not done in the area over the forehead. However it was partially done in the initial pivotal sections done on the top. This took place as the cut followed the natural slope of the front top of the head to the forehead.
Line the perimeter
This is done in the usual way. The clipper or trimmer is turned over so the heel of the blade is toward the ceiling. The blade is then gently touched to the hairline along the desired line. The client usually has strong feelings about how deep this line should be cut into the hairline. Less is generally preferred to more.
The line is continued around the perimeter. If hair is found over hanging the ears, etc, they are also trimmed away now.
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