1. Cut the sides using clipper over comb technique.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
No comments:
Post a Comment