Graduation's final shape is affected by several factors.
1. Elevation angle
Graduation is created by elevating the hair to 90 degrees or less from the horizontal. If it is 90 degrees of elevation the hair is all combed straight back from its natural fall position with all the hairs in the strand being parallel to each other and to the floor.
If the hair is elevated less than 90 degrees, the hairs in the strand are still parallel but the ends of the hair are lower than before. Lowering the hair half way between the horizontal and the floor will give a 45 degree elevation.
Lowering the hair from 90 degrees of elevation will lower the placement of the line of graduation. The longer lengths which make the top of the graduation will start lower because the head shape will begin to slope away from the head sooner as the graduation goes up from the hairline in the nape.
2. Cutting angle
Perpendicular Cutting Angle
Finger angle or cutting angle also moves the placement of the line of graduation.
As an example think of a section elevated to 90 degrees. All the hair here is combed straight back so that all the strands are parallel to each other and to the floor.
If the cutting angle is perpendicular to the floor, the length of the hairs in the section will increase at the top of the section as the head form curves away from the cutting line. This increase in length is what forms the boundary at the top of the graduation.
45 Degree Cutting Angle
Cutting the 90 degree horizontal section with a finger angle or cutting angle of 45 degrees across this strand is also a common practice. This angle has the scissors pointing in at the neck with the handles pulled away from the head. The effect is to make the hairs longer at the top of the section. This means that the top of the sections increase more rapidly in length compared to cutting with a line that is perpendicular or straight up and down. With the increasing length in the hair as you work up the section, the top of the graduation is reached sooner. This places the line of graduation lower on the head form compared to the perpendicular cutting angle.
Concave Cutting Angle
Cutting the 90 degree horizontal section with a cutting angle that points away from the nape with the handles of the scissors closer to the head creates a concave section. This has the top of the section shorter at top. This means that the boundary of the top of the graduation is not formed until very near the top of the head where the head dramatically curves away from the cutting line. This moves the top of the graduation further up the head shape. This graduated shape is flatter and tends to slope in the direction of the concave cutting. Weight is created under this shape by the extensive length cut into the bottom of the shape.
3. Sideways Over Direction
Over directing the sections to either side will give an inconsistent line of graduation. Over directing can be checked for prior to cutting.
The first check is to look at your body position and see if the section is in front of you. This will give you a chance to see if the hair in the section is being held over its section on the head. This is done by seeing that the hair is within the parts on each side of the section. If the section is in front of you, you have a good view of the parts and this makes it more likely you will keep it there during combing and cutting. Keeping the sections both in front of you and over the natural fall section of the hair means the body position shifts as different sections are cut.
4. Up Down Over Direction
Over directing the sections up and down will also give an inconsistent line of graduation.
The flow in the sections is determined in the first section cut. Once this has been done, a piece of a previously cut section should be incorporated in the new section to check that the flow of the hair is consistent. This is done by seeing that the hair is parallel to the flow in the previously cut section.
Over directing the section up moves from graduation to layering and this removes weight from the graduation line. The definition of the line becomes mushy or curved.
Friday, November 26, 2010
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
W/M: Looking at components of shape
Looking at the shape of a haircut design, lets you see the lines of the cut. Where the lines change direction lets you see the angles of the haircut. Measuring the angle tells you how strong the change in direction is.
The lines of the cut are either horizontal, vertical, or diagonal which is between horizontal and vertical. Horizontal lines would be seen in a one length haircut where the hair is cut parallel to the floor. This kind of line is seen as creating the most weight of the different types of lines.
If you want to create the least amount of weight in a cut you would take vertical sections and cut vertical lines instead of the horizontal lines in the one length haircut. Vertical lines are seen frequently in hair cuts for men where a leaner or closer cut is desired.
For something between the most weight and the least weight, use a diagonal line to define your cutting line. A diagonal line is seen in a graduated haircut where the diagonal line moves the weight off the bottom of the hair cut up the diagonal line of the graduation.
These kinds of line encourage the eye to follow them. A vertical line makes the up and down view of the haircut more noticeable. It makes the eye move up and down the shape and gives the shape the appearance of being vertically longer. This could used to balance a head shape that is seen as too round.
A horizontal line encourages the eye to look from side to side. This is makes the haircut look wider along the horizontal lines. This might be used when the creation of width is desired to compensate for an area that seems too narrow.
Diagonal lines encourage the eye to follow lines that are curved. These kinds of lines are frequently used to direct the vision to a facial asset of the client like an attractive chin, symmetrical cheeks, or well shaped lips. They can be used to direct the hair to the side or back of the face to open the face or they can direct the hair to the front of the face. A narrow face might want the hair directed back to open the face. A wide face might want hair directed to the front to give it a narrower look.
When lines change direction they create an angle. The angle is an important part of the hair design. For example, men frequently want sharp angles in their hair between the top of the hair design and the sides of the design. This gives a square look to the shape that is sometimes seen as masculine. To make this sharp angle, cut the hair on top to a flat line parallel to the ceiling and the hair on the sides to a flat line parallel to the walls. This will give a corner to the design which runs along the top of the parietal ridge.
Sharp corners are not usually wanted along the top of the parietal ridge for a woman's haircut. These corners can be rounded by cutting a rounded or diagonal line connecting the top and sides of the haircut.
When designing a haircut, decide where the lines should go and where they should change direction. For example a one length hair cut would have a line along the bottom of the haircut. For a square one length haircut the line is parallel to the floor all around the perimeter. For a circular cut the length would shorter in the front and longer in the back. For a triangular cut the length is shorter in the back and longer in the front. The lines in the circular and triangular are both slightly diagonal. Round has a diagonal back line and triangular has a diagonal forward line.
If you now wanted to add graduation to these one length haircuts, you would add diagonal lines defining the graduated part. These lines would give you other points of interest where the lines of graduation meet the ungraduated hair. What you do to the ungraduated hair will create another line. These two areas (graduated and ungraduated hair) will meet at an angle which can be changed to give the style the best shape for the client.
In analyzing a picture of a haircut the same methods are used. Look at the lines in the haircut and determine where the lines change direction. See the angle between the lines and use this information for plan for the lines and how sharply they change direction.
The lines of the cut are either horizontal, vertical, or diagonal which is between horizontal and vertical. Horizontal lines would be seen in a one length haircut where the hair is cut parallel to the floor. This kind of line is seen as creating the most weight of the different types of lines.
If you want to create the least amount of weight in a cut you would take vertical sections and cut vertical lines instead of the horizontal lines in the one length haircut. Vertical lines are seen frequently in hair cuts for men where a leaner or closer cut is desired.
For something between the most weight and the least weight, use a diagonal line to define your cutting line. A diagonal line is seen in a graduated haircut where the diagonal line moves the weight off the bottom of the hair cut up the diagonal line of the graduation.
These kinds of line encourage the eye to follow them. A vertical line makes the up and down view of the haircut more noticeable. It makes the eye move up and down the shape and gives the shape the appearance of being vertically longer. This could used to balance a head shape that is seen as too round.
A horizontal line encourages the eye to look from side to side. This is makes the haircut look wider along the horizontal lines. This might be used when the creation of width is desired to compensate for an area that seems too narrow.
Diagonal lines encourage the eye to follow lines that are curved. These kinds of lines are frequently used to direct the vision to a facial asset of the client like an attractive chin, symmetrical cheeks, or well shaped lips. They can be used to direct the hair to the side or back of the face to open the face or they can direct the hair to the front of the face. A narrow face might want the hair directed back to open the face. A wide face might want hair directed to the front to give it a narrower look.
When lines change direction they create an angle. The angle is an important part of the hair design. For example, men frequently want sharp angles in their hair between the top of the hair design and the sides of the design. This gives a square look to the shape that is sometimes seen as masculine. To make this sharp angle, cut the hair on top to a flat line parallel to the ceiling and the hair on the sides to a flat line parallel to the walls. This will give a corner to the design which runs along the top of the parietal ridge.
Sharp corners are not usually wanted along the top of the parietal ridge for a woman's haircut. These corners can be rounded by cutting a rounded or diagonal line connecting the top and sides of the haircut.
When designing a haircut, decide where the lines should go and where they should change direction. For example a one length hair cut would have a line along the bottom of the haircut. For a square one length haircut the line is parallel to the floor all around the perimeter. For a circular cut the length would shorter in the front and longer in the back. For a triangular cut the length is shorter in the back and longer in the front. The lines in the circular and triangular are both slightly diagonal. Round has a diagonal back line and triangular has a diagonal forward line.
If you now wanted to add graduation to these one length haircuts, you would add diagonal lines defining the graduated part. These lines would give you other points of interest where the lines of graduation meet the ungraduated hair. What you do to the ungraduated hair will create another line. These two areas (graduated and ungraduated hair) will meet at an angle which can be changed to give the style the best shape for the client.
In analyzing a picture of a haircut the same methods are used. Look at the lines in the haircut and determine where the lines change direction. See the angle between the lines and use this information for plan for the lines and how sharply they change direction.
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Point cutting to reduce weight
Saw a demonstration using point cutting to reduce a weight line. It was cut into a section where the hair was about 4 to 5 inches long.
I plan to try this on styles for men as a way of blending away weight lines.
I plan to try this on styles for men as a way of blending away weight lines.
Using thinning shears to reduce weight
Saw a video using thinning shears to reduce weight. The stylist emphasized making 3 cuts along the length of the hair to get good reduction in weight.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
This stylist pulled section out at 90 degrees from the head and made a cut about an inch from the scalp and then another inch further from the scalp and finally a third cut about an inch further from the scalp.
This technique worked well in this demonstration. This was done in a woman's style where the hair was about 4 inches long. This may need fewer cuts in shorter hair???
In cutting Asian hair on men, I have used a two cut thinning technique to reduce weight around the crown to help it to lie down. This seemed to work. Using one cut along the shaft of the hair did not work well.
Plan to try a third cut to see if this is even more effective.
Saturday, June 12, 2010
M: short, clipper over comb
1. Cut the sides using clipper over comb technique.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Make a horse shoe parting slightly above the parietal ridge around the top of the head.
Place the comb in front of the ear with the teeth of the comb facing to the front hairline. You can use either a clipper comb or a cutting comb.
This involves two tapers. One is from top to bottom (First Taper) and second is from the front hairline to top of the ear (Second Taper). These can be cut at one time or the first taper from bottom to top can be done. Once this is complete the second taper can be added to the hair in front of the ear going to the front hairline.
First taper
The top of the comb is above the parietal ridge and the bottom of the comb is in front of the ear. The comb is on an angle with the top leaning to the back of the ear.
Second taper
It is also on an angle with the top tilted away from the top of the head and the bottom close to the scalp. This angle reflects the slope of the graduation you want to cut into the side.
The teeth of the comb are tipped off the scalp slightly to limit the amount of hair on top of the comb. This is the hair that will be cut by taking the clipper up the comb.
This will cut the guide section with the desired graduation.
2. Cut in front of the ear.
Pivot sections in front of the ear using the top of the guide section as the pivot point. The bottom of the comb is rotated up the front of the hairline and it is held close to the scalp.
This gives the hair in front of the ear some graduation or tapering from the front hairline to the top of the ear.
3. Cut from the top of the ear to the back of the head.
In this area the comb is more vertical. Get the guide from the already cut hair.
Tip the comb along the scalp to reflect the graduation from the horse shoe shaped parting to the hairline below. Tip the teeth away from the scalp to bring them level with the already cut hair all along the comb. Cut the hair from the bottom of the comb to the top.
Continue this to the middle of the nape.
4. Then go to the front of the ear on the other side and do the same procedures: taper the front hairline to the ear. Then cut more vertical sections to the back of the nape.
5. Cut transition from side to the top as described in other posts. ( See below)
6. Cut across the top to connect the top on each side.
Once the sides were graduated, the transition from the top of the parietal ridge to the top was cut. This was not done with the clipper over comb technique. It was done with a clipper over finger technique. This technique is described in a previous post: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture. Look under the section on cutting texture. The hair was combed to 90 degrees from the area above the parietal ridge and cut vertical from the floor.
After this the top was cut in side to side sections across the horse shoe shaped section by pulling the sections straight up to the ceiling and cutting with the same back hand technique of holding the clipper and the comb.
The main thing in this haircut is starting with the clipper over comb technique in cutting the sides and the back.
Wednesday, June 2, 2010
w: One length square with layers.
1. Cut the one length square haircut as described in a previous post.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
2. Make four sections with parts down center top and through nape. Other part is from Apex to behind the ears.
3. Center part from apex to front hairline. Make a 1 inch section here.
4. Measure length of hair behind ear. Use this as the guide to length at the front hairline for the center section on top of head.
5. Cut the hair in the center top section flat to the ceiling at the guide length from front hairline to apex.
6. Continue to take sections to the side of the center top section and cut to the guide from the previous section. Work to the to the parietal ridge.
7. Cut the other side of the top the same way.
8. Extend the length on the top through the crown. Do this by extending the length down the middle first from the apex to the crown. Then take sections to the side of this section and cut all flat to the ceiling.
9. Do the other side of apex to crown section.
10. Move to front hairline. Take vertical sections and pull to 90 degrees to the side using the hair from the top as the guide. Cut flat to the wall. Work your way back to the mastoid process area.
11. Do the other side from the front hairline the same way.
12. Move to the center back below the crown. Take vertical sections and pull straight back at 90 degrees and cut flat to the wall behind. Work to the mastoid area pulling the sections straight back to the wall behind. These sections will not cut the low hair in the nape because that hair will not reach the guide from the crown area.
13. Cross check using sections that are horizontal where the hair has been cut in vertical sections.
Review PM one length square with layering.
By cutting the top flat to the ceiling and the sides flat to the wall, a corner is created along the parietal ridge.
By cutting sides flat to the wall on side and the back to the wall behind, a corner is created in the mastoid area.
Sunday, May 16, 2010
M: clipper, short, layering, clipper over comb taper
This is a haircut done with clippers. It starts at the top and works its way down to the perimeter where the hair is tapered. The top is done in layering where the top is pulled 90 degrees to the ceiling and cut parallel to the head shape. The curve of the top to side connection is then done. It continues pulling the hair to 90 degrees from the head shape and the hair is cut to follow the head shape over the curve. After getting over the curve the top of the side is cut to 90 degrees from the side. This 9o degrees from the side is continued low enough on the side to reach into the lower part of the haircut where the tapering will be cut.
Many of the other haircuts done in these posts start at the bottom and work their way to the top. This haircut takes the starting as the top and works its way down. Each approach has its advantages. Try this one to see which you prefer.
The layering in this haircut is done using the back hand technique. This technique has been described before in a post called: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture.
In this haircut a new way of doing this technique is used. In the old way the clipper is placed in the hand with the blade near the pinkie or heel of the hand. The cord end of the clipper comes out of the hand between the thumb and first finger. If the palm of the hand holding the clipper faces the ceiling, the blade of the clipper also faces the ceiling. This hand also holds the clipper comb with it inserted in between the second and third fingers. The teeth of the comb are facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper blade. This allows you to turn the blade away from the client while combing the hair to you.
In this haircut, the comb is initially placed with the teeth of the comb facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper. This is used for layering across the top and for layering the client's right side while you stand behind the client.
To layer the left side of the client, the stylist moves to in front of the client and decides to cut the layering by cutting sections from the front of the client to the back. The stylist combs the hair away from himself toward the back of the client. To achieve this he rotated the comb 180 degrees and had the teeth of the comb facing in the opposite direction that the teeth of the clipper faced.
I tried this and did not find it that useful for me. This may be because I have not practiced this. For me it was relatively easy to move to the client's front for cutting the client's right side by combing the sections toward me before cutting the side layering.
Layering the top
This is started by cutting a center section in the middle of the top of the head. The section runs from the front hairline through the crown.
This center section is not specifically sectioned off before cutting in this demonstration. This stylist has a ton of experience and holds records for haircutting speed. He does not need to comb out the section parts on both sides to see what has to be picked up in the section. For the less experienced cutter, it is a big help to clearly part off the section.
Once the section is determined, it is lifted up 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. This will be the guide for the rest of the haircut. The length of this section is determined in consultation with the client before the haircut is started. The hair is cut using the back hand clipper technique. The hair is held in the non cutting hand with the pads of the fingers closer to the scalp. The hair is then cut along the backs of the fingers.
Once the center guide is finished, sections are taken side to side from the middle top of the head to the side. These are pulled up to 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. Again this stylist does not comb out clear parts to show the limits of these sections in the top. For someone with less experience, making clear parts for each section is a big help. These are also cut using the back hand clipper technique. At the crown area, the sections pivot around the back of the head.
Layering the sides
Once the top of the head has been layered, the sides are layered by taking sections that connect the top through the sides. These run from the side of the top to down the side. The section should go at least through the widest parts of the head at the widest part of the parietal ridge on the sides and occipital bone in the back. Each section is combed to 90 degrees from the head shape and cut to follow the head shape. Do the other side of the top the same way. It may be more convenient to cut the client's left side from the front of the client.
If you start on the client's right side, you can continue these sections through the right side through the back and then through the client's left side. You could also start on the right side, work to the middle back, and then move the clients front left and work to the middle back again.
The guide for all the sections is taken from the hair above which has already been cut.
Tapering from the bottom up
A clipper over comb technique is used. The middle back is used to define the angle of the taper from the hairline to the blend with the previously cut hair.
Hair is combed into natural fall.
The comb is inserted into the hair at the middle of the hairline line with the teeth pointing up the head. The comb is then tilted away from the head at the desired angle of the taper. The clipper is then run along the comb to cut it.
In some other haircuts, the angle for the taper is described as following the head shape up to the occipital bone. This means the comb is tilted away from the head at the top until the comb is parallel to the underlying head structure.
Once the first cut is made in the taper, the comb is inserted into the hair again at a small angle from the horizontal like 20 to 30 degrees. The comb is moved vertically up the previously cut taper until the tapered part of the hair is seen at the bottom of the comb's teeth. The teeth of the comb is again tilted away from the head until it matches the desired angle of the taper. The amount of tilting of the teeth away from the head shape will increase as the comb is moved up the head. This will accommodate the natural slope of the head shape as it moves back going from the hairline to the occipital bone.
The hair protruding beyond the comb next to the guide is then cut.
When the comb reaches the already cut layering on the side the tapering from below should blend the joining of the taper from below with the layering above.
Once the first vertical section is cut to your satisfaction, move to the left or right of this section and start all over again at the hairline. Move vertically again and tilt the comb teeth away from the head shape to match the taper in the first cut. This travelling guide will take you around one side of the head to the ear on one side and then the other.
Cut the double taper in front of the ear
In front of the ear, the hair is cut with a taper that is similar to the taper behind the ear but with one big difference. In front of the ear there is also a taper from the front hairline to the top of the ear. This means there is a vertical taper going from the sideburns area and there is also a taper where the hair near the front hairline is shorter than the hair on top of the ear. This taper is achieved by having the comb closer at the front hairline and further from the scalp at the ear while tilting the teeth of the comb away from the head shape.
Once this double taper has been cut, it is connected to the taper behind the ear by using the comb to hold each taper at different ends of the comb. The cut is to then connect the two guides with a smooth line.
The taper part of this haircut is done with clipper over comb in this haircut. The commentary on this demonstration says this is the single most important skill to master in men's clipper cutting.
The taper can also be cut free hand or with a series of clipper guards going from longer to shorter.
Many of the other haircuts done in these posts start at the bottom and work their way to the top. This haircut takes the starting as the top and works its way down. Each approach has its advantages. Try this one to see which you prefer.
The layering in this haircut is done using the back hand technique. This technique has been described before in a post called: W/M: clipper, mid length, texture.
In this haircut a new way of doing this technique is used. In the old way the clipper is placed in the hand with the blade near the pinkie or heel of the hand. The cord end of the clipper comes out of the hand between the thumb and first finger. If the palm of the hand holding the clipper faces the ceiling, the blade of the clipper also faces the ceiling. This hand also holds the clipper comb with it inserted in between the second and third fingers. The teeth of the comb are facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper blade. This allows you to turn the blade away from the client while combing the hair to you.
In this haircut, the comb is initially placed with the teeth of the comb facing the same direction as the teeth of the clipper. This is used for layering across the top and for layering the client's right side while you stand behind the client.
To layer the left side of the client, the stylist moves to in front of the client and decides to cut the layering by cutting sections from the front of the client to the back. The stylist combs the hair away from himself toward the back of the client. To achieve this he rotated the comb 180 degrees and had the teeth of the comb facing in the opposite direction that the teeth of the clipper faced.
I tried this and did not find it that useful for me. This may be because I have not practiced this. For me it was relatively easy to move to the client's front for cutting the client's right side by combing the sections toward me before cutting the side layering.
Layering the top
This is started by cutting a center section in the middle of the top of the head. The section runs from the front hairline through the crown.
This center section is not specifically sectioned off before cutting in this demonstration. This stylist has a ton of experience and holds records for haircutting speed. He does not need to comb out the section parts on both sides to see what has to be picked up in the section. For the less experienced cutter, it is a big help to clearly part off the section.
Once the section is determined, it is lifted up 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. This will be the guide for the rest of the haircut. The length of this section is determined in consultation with the client before the haircut is started. The hair is cut using the back hand clipper technique. The hair is held in the non cutting hand with the pads of the fingers closer to the scalp. The hair is then cut along the backs of the fingers.
Once the center guide is finished, sections are taken side to side from the middle top of the head to the side. These are pulled up to 90 degrees and cut to follow the head shape. Again this stylist does not comb out clear parts to show the limits of these sections in the top. For someone with less experience, making clear parts for each section is a big help. These are also cut using the back hand clipper technique. At the crown area, the sections pivot around the back of the head.
Layering the sides
Once the top of the head has been layered, the sides are layered by taking sections that connect the top through the sides. These run from the side of the top to down the side. The section should go at least through the widest parts of the head at the widest part of the parietal ridge on the sides and occipital bone in the back. Each section is combed to 90 degrees from the head shape and cut to follow the head shape. Do the other side of the top the same way. It may be more convenient to cut the client's left side from the front of the client.
If you start on the client's right side, you can continue these sections through the right side through the back and then through the client's left side. You could also start on the right side, work to the middle back, and then move the clients front left and work to the middle back again.
The guide for all the sections is taken from the hair above which has already been cut.
Tapering from the bottom up
A clipper over comb technique is used. The middle back is used to define the angle of the taper from the hairline to the blend with the previously cut hair.
Hair is combed into natural fall.
The comb is inserted into the hair at the middle of the hairline line with the teeth pointing up the head. The comb is then tilted away from the head at the desired angle of the taper. The clipper is then run along the comb to cut it.
In some other haircuts, the angle for the taper is described as following the head shape up to the occipital bone. This means the comb is tilted away from the head at the top until the comb is parallel to the underlying head structure.
Once the first cut is made in the taper, the comb is inserted into the hair again at a small angle from the horizontal like 20 to 30 degrees. The comb is moved vertically up the previously cut taper until the tapered part of the hair is seen at the bottom of the comb's teeth. The teeth of the comb is again tilted away from the head until it matches the desired angle of the taper. The amount of tilting of the teeth away from the head shape will increase as the comb is moved up the head. This will accommodate the natural slope of the head shape as it moves back going from the hairline to the occipital bone.
The hair protruding beyond the comb next to the guide is then cut.
When the comb reaches the already cut layering on the side the tapering from below should blend the joining of the taper from below with the layering above.
Once the first vertical section is cut to your satisfaction, move to the left or right of this section and start all over again at the hairline. Move vertically again and tilt the comb teeth away from the head shape to match the taper in the first cut. This travelling guide will take you around one side of the head to the ear on one side and then the other.
Cut the double taper in front of the ear
In front of the ear, the hair is cut with a taper that is similar to the taper behind the ear but with one big difference. In front of the ear there is also a taper from the front hairline to the top of the ear. This means there is a vertical taper going from the sideburns area and there is also a taper where the hair near the front hairline is shorter than the hair on top of the ear. This taper is achieved by having the comb closer at the front hairline and further from the scalp at the ear while tilting the teeth of the comb away from the head shape.
Once this double taper has been cut, it is connected to the taper behind the ear by using the comb to hold each taper at different ends of the comb. The cut is to then connect the two guides with a smooth line.
The taper part of this haircut is done with clipper over comb in this haircut. The commentary on this demonstration says this is the single most important skill to master in men's clipper cutting.
The taper can also be cut free hand or with a series of clipper guards going from longer to shorter.
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