Graduation's final shape is affected by several factors.
1. Elevation angle
Graduation is created by elevating the hair to 90 degrees or less from the horizontal. If it is 90 degrees of elevation the hair is all combed straight back from its natural fall position with all the hairs in the strand being parallel to each other and to the floor.
If the hair is elevated less than 90 degrees, the hairs in the strand are still parallel but the ends of the hair are lower than before. Lowering the hair half way between the horizontal and the floor will give a 45 degree elevation.
Lowering the hair from 90 degrees of elevation will lower the placement of the line of graduation. The longer lengths which make the top of the graduation will start lower because the head shape will begin to slope away from the head sooner as the graduation goes up from the hairline in the nape.
2. Cutting angle
Perpendicular Cutting Angle
Finger angle or cutting angle also moves the placement of the line of graduation.
As an example think of a section elevated to 90 degrees. All the hair here is combed straight back so that all the strands are parallel to each other and to the floor.
If the cutting angle is perpendicular to the floor, the length of the hairs in the section will increase at the top of the section as the head form curves away from the cutting line. This increase in length is what forms the boundary at the top of the graduation.
45 Degree Cutting Angle
Cutting the 90 degree horizontal section with a finger angle or cutting angle of 45 degrees across this strand is also a common practice. This angle has the scissors pointing in at the neck with the handles pulled away from the head. The effect is to make the hairs longer at the top of the section. This means that the top of the sections increase more rapidly in length compared to cutting with a line that is perpendicular or straight up and down. With the increasing length in the hair as you work up the section, the top of the graduation is reached sooner. This places the line of graduation lower on the head form compared to the perpendicular cutting angle.
Concave Cutting Angle
Cutting the 90 degree horizontal section with a cutting angle that points away from the nape with the handles of the scissors closer to the head creates a concave section. This has the top of the section shorter at top. This means that the boundary of the top of the graduation is not formed until very near the top of the head where the head dramatically curves away from the cutting line. This moves the top of the graduation further up the head shape. This graduated shape is flatter and tends to slope in the direction of the concave cutting. Weight is created under this shape by the extensive length cut into the bottom of the shape.
3. Sideways Over Direction
Over directing the sections to either side will give an inconsistent line of graduation. Over directing can be checked for prior to cutting.
The first check is to look at your body position and see if the section is in front of you. This will give you a chance to see if the hair in the section is being held over its section on the head. This is done by seeing that the hair is within the parts on each side of the section. If the section is in front of you, you have a good view of the parts and this makes it more likely you will keep it there during combing and cutting. Keeping the sections both in front of you and over the natural fall section of the hair means the body position shifts as different sections are cut.
4. Up Down Over Direction
Over directing the sections up and down will also give an inconsistent line of graduation.
The flow in the sections is determined in the first section cut. Once this has been done, a piece of a previously cut section should be incorporated in the new section to check that the flow of the hair is consistent. This is done by seeing that the hair is parallel to the flow in the previously cut section.
Over directing the section up moves from graduation to layering and this removes weight from the graduation line. The definition of the line becomes mushy or curved.
Friday, November 26, 2010
Wednesday, November 24, 2010
W/M: Looking at components of shape
Looking at the shape of a haircut design, lets you see the lines of the cut. Where the lines change direction lets you see the angles of the haircut. Measuring the angle tells you how strong the change in direction is.
The lines of the cut are either horizontal, vertical, or diagonal which is between horizontal and vertical. Horizontal lines would be seen in a one length haircut where the hair is cut parallel to the floor. This kind of line is seen as creating the most weight of the different types of lines.
If you want to create the least amount of weight in a cut you would take vertical sections and cut vertical lines instead of the horizontal lines in the one length haircut. Vertical lines are seen frequently in hair cuts for men where a leaner or closer cut is desired.
For something between the most weight and the least weight, use a diagonal line to define your cutting line. A diagonal line is seen in a graduated haircut where the diagonal line moves the weight off the bottom of the hair cut up the diagonal line of the graduation.
These kinds of line encourage the eye to follow them. A vertical line makes the up and down view of the haircut more noticeable. It makes the eye move up and down the shape and gives the shape the appearance of being vertically longer. This could used to balance a head shape that is seen as too round.
A horizontal line encourages the eye to look from side to side. This is makes the haircut look wider along the horizontal lines. This might be used when the creation of width is desired to compensate for an area that seems too narrow.
Diagonal lines encourage the eye to follow lines that are curved. These kinds of lines are frequently used to direct the vision to a facial asset of the client like an attractive chin, symmetrical cheeks, or well shaped lips. They can be used to direct the hair to the side or back of the face to open the face or they can direct the hair to the front of the face. A narrow face might want the hair directed back to open the face. A wide face might want hair directed to the front to give it a narrower look.
When lines change direction they create an angle. The angle is an important part of the hair design. For example, men frequently want sharp angles in their hair between the top of the hair design and the sides of the design. This gives a square look to the shape that is sometimes seen as masculine. To make this sharp angle, cut the hair on top to a flat line parallel to the ceiling and the hair on the sides to a flat line parallel to the walls. This will give a corner to the design which runs along the top of the parietal ridge.
Sharp corners are not usually wanted along the top of the parietal ridge for a woman's haircut. These corners can be rounded by cutting a rounded or diagonal line connecting the top and sides of the haircut.
When designing a haircut, decide where the lines should go and where they should change direction. For example a one length hair cut would have a line along the bottom of the haircut. For a square one length haircut the line is parallel to the floor all around the perimeter. For a circular cut the length would shorter in the front and longer in the back. For a triangular cut the length is shorter in the back and longer in the front. The lines in the circular and triangular are both slightly diagonal. Round has a diagonal back line and triangular has a diagonal forward line.
If you now wanted to add graduation to these one length haircuts, you would add diagonal lines defining the graduated part. These lines would give you other points of interest where the lines of graduation meet the ungraduated hair. What you do to the ungraduated hair will create another line. These two areas (graduated and ungraduated hair) will meet at an angle which can be changed to give the style the best shape for the client.
In analyzing a picture of a haircut the same methods are used. Look at the lines in the haircut and determine where the lines change direction. See the angle between the lines and use this information for plan for the lines and how sharply they change direction.
The lines of the cut are either horizontal, vertical, or diagonal which is between horizontal and vertical. Horizontal lines would be seen in a one length haircut where the hair is cut parallel to the floor. This kind of line is seen as creating the most weight of the different types of lines.
If you want to create the least amount of weight in a cut you would take vertical sections and cut vertical lines instead of the horizontal lines in the one length haircut. Vertical lines are seen frequently in hair cuts for men where a leaner or closer cut is desired.
For something between the most weight and the least weight, use a diagonal line to define your cutting line. A diagonal line is seen in a graduated haircut where the diagonal line moves the weight off the bottom of the hair cut up the diagonal line of the graduation.
These kinds of line encourage the eye to follow them. A vertical line makes the up and down view of the haircut more noticeable. It makes the eye move up and down the shape and gives the shape the appearance of being vertically longer. This could used to balance a head shape that is seen as too round.
A horizontal line encourages the eye to look from side to side. This is makes the haircut look wider along the horizontal lines. This might be used when the creation of width is desired to compensate for an area that seems too narrow.
Diagonal lines encourage the eye to follow lines that are curved. These kinds of lines are frequently used to direct the vision to a facial asset of the client like an attractive chin, symmetrical cheeks, or well shaped lips. They can be used to direct the hair to the side or back of the face to open the face or they can direct the hair to the front of the face. A narrow face might want the hair directed back to open the face. A wide face might want hair directed to the front to give it a narrower look.
When lines change direction they create an angle. The angle is an important part of the hair design. For example, men frequently want sharp angles in their hair between the top of the hair design and the sides of the design. This gives a square look to the shape that is sometimes seen as masculine. To make this sharp angle, cut the hair on top to a flat line parallel to the ceiling and the hair on the sides to a flat line parallel to the walls. This will give a corner to the design which runs along the top of the parietal ridge.
Sharp corners are not usually wanted along the top of the parietal ridge for a woman's haircut. These corners can be rounded by cutting a rounded or diagonal line connecting the top and sides of the haircut.
When designing a haircut, decide where the lines should go and where they should change direction. For example a one length hair cut would have a line along the bottom of the haircut. For a square one length haircut the line is parallel to the floor all around the perimeter. For a circular cut the length would shorter in the front and longer in the back. For a triangular cut the length is shorter in the back and longer in the front. The lines in the circular and triangular are both slightly diagonal. Round has a diagonal back line and triangular has a diagonal forward line.
If you now wanted to add graduation to these one length haircuts, you would add diagonal lines defining the graduated part. These lines would give you other points of interest where the lines of graduation meet the ungraduated hair. What you do to the ungraduated hair will create another line. These two areas (graduated and ungraduated hair) will meet at an angle which can be changed to give the style the best shape for the client.
In analyzing a picture of a haircut the same methods are used. Look at the lines in the haircut and determine where the lines change direction. See the angle between the lines and use this information for plan for the lines and how sharply they change direction.
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